Dovetail joints have always been a favorite of mine. While there’s certainly more than a little know-how involved in routed dovetails, it’s the hand-cut kind that always grabbed my attention. I imagine it’s similar to why some people like to run for hours at a time — there’s enjoyment simply in accomplishing a thing that isn’t easy.
Here, we’ll go through my method for cutting dovetails. I certainly didn’t invent it, but it’s the one I’ve learned and worked on. I begin with the pins, then move to the tails, but that’s simply a point of preference. The key is that whichever one is made first is used to directly lay out the second one. This ensures that your dovetails will mate with your pins, despite any small variations in their layout or spacing.
A few reliable layout tools alongside a sharp saw and chisel are all you need to start hand-cutting your own dovetails.
Another personal preference is chopping out the sockets with a chisel. I enjoy it, but it is arguably more effective to cut most of the waste out with a coping saw, then finish with a chisel.
One final point is the importance of using a marking knife or marking gauge. I always use a pencil line to dial in the layout (and for visibility), but I use a marking knife (or gauge) to make the actual line.
This also means that later, as I remove the final waste from the socket, I’ll have a mark to register my chisel in. In my opinion, that scored line is the key to a precise dovetail joint.
Dovetails are a strong and striking joint. Their mechanical strength makes them particularly well suited to drawers, boxes, and casework, and, when used on a corner, a crisp, clean dovetail takes center stage on any piece of furniture.
LAYING OUT THE PINS
Step 1: Check for Square. Before laying out the pins, check that the boards are square and flat along the ends. If they’re uneven or not square, plane them down.
Step 2: Baseline. Laying out the pins begins with a baseline. The width here equals the thickness of the tail piece. I first mark the thickness with the actual piece, then make a more defined line.
Step 3: Pin Locations. When establishing pin locations, first mark out their spacing across the end corner. Next, connect those marks to the baseline with a square.
Step 4: Pin Angles. To lay out the angles of the pins on the board’s end, use either a bevel gauge or a dedicated dovetail guide to transfer the pin lines across the end grain.
Step 5: Opposite Face. Use a square to transfer the pin lines over to the opposite face from the one you began on. Connect these lines down to the baseline with a square.
Step 6: Marking Gauge. A marking gauge is a great way to establish a score mark in the baseline. This will give your chisel a physical register when you chop out the waste later on.
Step 7: Marking Knife. A marking knife is useful when scoring across the shorter layout lines of the pins. If you have a single-beveled knife, face the bevel toward the waste.
Step 8: Establish the Sides. Use a dovetail saw (or another back saw) to cut in the sides of the waste. The goal here is to get as close to the layout line as possible without sawing into it.
Step 9: Chop Down. When chopping the waste out of the socket, first chop down just in front of the baseline to sever the fibers and prevent splitting as you clean out the socket.
Step 10: Remove Chips. Chop in from the end to separate and remove the waste. Cut away half the waste in a socket, then flip the board and repeat on the opposite side.
MAKING THE TAILS
Transfer the Pins. After marking out the baseline, transfer the pin locations directly onto the tail piece. Use a square to extend these lines across the end of the tail piece.
Opposite Face. Use either a bevel gauge or a dovetail guide to finish out the tails’ layout on the opposite face. Follow this by scoring the layout lines with a marking knife.
Sawn Ends. With the layout in place, remove the waste as you did in Steps 8 through 10 with the pin board. The chunks of waste at the edges can be removed by crosscutting.
A Little Sanding. A small, narrow scrap of wood with a bit of adhesive-backed sandpaper makes a good sanding tool for the cheeks of the pins and tails.
FITTING THE JOINT
Test & Mark. After sanding down the sockets, dry-fit the pin and tail boards together, then mark any sticking points by shading them with a pencil.
Pare Away. From here, the only thing left to do is test-fit and pare. Remember: it’s easier to take wood away than put it back! Once you're satisfied with the fit, the joint can be glued up.
Hand-cut dovetails take a little practice, but that’s part of what makes them so satisfying. Focus on accurate layout, saw close to your lines, and take your time when paring the final fit. With each joint you cut, the process becomes more natural—and before long, you’ll have a strong, good-looking joint you’ll be proud to show off.
