cutting sheet goods without a Table Saw
Plywood and other sheet materials play a key role in many woodworking projects. The biggest downside is cutting the large pieces into project parts. Full sheets of 3/4" plywood weigh around 80lbs. Then you have to consider the size and how to manage that across a table saw — the definition of awkward.
There are better ways to make this work. We’ll explore some of those options in this article. The one you choose depends on your current tooling, the kinds of tools you want to get, and your goals in creating project parts from sheets of plywood. We’ll work from a rough to refined level.
TWO-STAGE CUTTING.
When I started woodworking, my dad’s approach to cutting plywood worked in two stages: Step one was to use a straightedge guide and a circular saw to cut a sheet into smaller chunks.
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| A small, cordless circular saw is just the right size for ease of use in cutting sheet materials like plywood and MDF. Together with a good blade and shopmade cutting guide, you can make smooth, accurate cuts. |
The second stage is to turn those chunks into finished size parts at the table saw. (Yeah. I know I said this was without a table saw.)
SHOPMADE CUTTING GUIDE
We’re all in this hobby for fun, so working with tools is part of the joy. However, we still need to get a project done. Adding steps (if they could be avoided) doesn’t add more joy. In fact, extra steps often result in mistakes. What’s needed is a way to make project parts right from the full sheet.
The shopmade cutting guide shown above is one way to create parts. We’ve shown this concept before. The guide consists of a thin base with a fence. The fence guides the saw in a straight line. The base both protects the workpiece from getting marred by the saw and backs up the cut to prevent chipout. Detail ‘a’ shows how to trim the base with the saw.
This means the edge shows you exactly where the cut is made. So no more measuring the distance from the blade to the edge of the saw’s baseplate. You can make a guide (or even better several) in whatever length you need.
A BETTER BLADE.
The guide assists in making straight cuts. In order for them to be smooth, you also need a good blade. A basic construction blade leads to frustration. A 40-tooth (or higher) carbide-tipped blade is a better choice. That said, I would avoid the old-school “plywood blades.” These steel blades have a bazillion teeth, cut slow, and dull quickly.
SETTING UP A Cutting Station
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| A sheet of foam insulation forms a sacrificial surface for cutting sheets of plywood. The foam is supported by a pair of sawhorses with a set of notched beams. | Reaching across a 48"-wide sheet can be a long stretch. You can give yourself a hand by using shorter sawhorses. This lowers the working height, allowing you to extend your reach. |
GOOD TECHNIQUE.
The cutting guide isn’t a cure-all. It still requires good technique. That starts with careful layout and placement of the guide.
In use, make sure that the saw’s base stays against the fence on the guide throughout the cut. Another issue to watch for is unintentionally tilting the saw resulting in a beveled cut.
CIRC SAW ADD-ONS
A shopmade cutting guide transformed how I work with sheet stock. As I've indicated though, they aren't without limitations. In addition, not everyone shares my affinity for DIY solutions. You'll find a slew of aftermarket circular saw accessories to increase accuracy and consistency. (Refer to Sources on page 48 for more information.) Here are a couple of stand outs that don't cost a lot of money and offer clever features.
RIPS CUTS.
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| The Kreg Rip Cut consists of a baseplate that attaches to the saw. It slides on a track with a long guide fence on one end to determine the width of cut. | Keep the fence tight against the edge of the panel to ensure a parallel cut. |
A cutting guide works well for straight cuts based off of a layout line. Just clamp the guide in place and go. However, if you need to make a rip cut, one that's parallel with another edge, the setup requires more care.
One solution is shown in the photos. Kreg‘s Rip Cut incorporates an auxiliary baseplate. That plate slides along a large T-square type setup. The fence rides along the reference edge of your workpiece to make parallel cuts. With this, you can make cuts up to 24" wide. I find this easy to use and is ideal if you need to make several pieces the same width.
Although the baseplate is simple to install with toggles, it’s best to just leave it on your circular saw. The baseplate works with other Kreg accessories.
STAY ON TRACK.
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| The Milescraft Track Saw Guide comes with an auxiliary baseplate, two sections of track, and a pair of clamps. Additional track sections are also available. | Use clamps if you’re cutting slick material. | Otherwise the track stays put on its own. |
One of the troubles that I mentioned with cutting guides is keeping the saw against the fence. It’s easy to drift slightly if your attention is solely focused on the blade as it cuts. To solve for drift, several accessories borrow an idea from the track saw world. (More on those in a bit.)
The Milescraft Track Saw Guide also starts with an auxiliary base-plate that mounts to your saw. A runner on the bottom of the baseplate fits into a groove in an aluminum track that forms the other part of the kit. There’s no drifting as the saw runs like a locomotive on rails.
You can purchase additional sections of track to create longer guides. A plastic edge on the track gets trimmed by the saw blade much like the shopmade guides. Non-slip strips hold the guide in place without the need for clamps.
I was skeptical of this feature as well. But it works great. For slippery mate-rials like melamine, you can use low-profile clamps that slide in a slot on the underside of the track.
TRACK SAWS
Up to now, we’ve been talking about maximizing the abilities of a common circular saw. For the ultimate in table saw-free sheet stock processing, you need a different saw altogether. Recent years have seen a proliferation of track saws that make this a more accessible tool than the early premium models.
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| A track saw and track form a precision cutting duo for breaking down sheets of plywood into project parts. Nonslip strips on the track eliminate the need for extra clamps. |
SAW FEATURES.
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| The plunge cutting ability of the blade allows you to form notches with stopped cuts. You can easily see where the blade is cutting from the side. |
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| Track saws feature depth adjustments with clear scales that set quickly to stop the blade at the right depth when you engage the plunge mechanism. |
 riving knife |
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| The track keeps the saw moving in a straight line. A riving knife behind the blade prevents kickback. The key to accurate cuts (and the resulting parts) is making sure you mark your layout lines carefully. |
In spite of a similar appearance, a track saw is different from a circular saw. The base is designed for use with a track. The depth of cut adjustment and angle controls are much easier to see and set on tracks saws, as well. You can see this on the Kreg saw.
Perhaps the biggest difference is how the blade is configured. At rest, the saw sits flat on the baseplate with the blade retracted into its housing. This configuration is safer and also makes the saw easier to store on a shelf.
To use the saw, you need to press a button to lower the spinning blade, much in the same way that a plunge router works. A riving knife behind the blade prevents a workpiece from binding and causing kickback. The plunge function means that you can make stopped cuts with far greater accuracy than with a circular saw.
I’ve used the saw to form notches and cutouts in project parts. You only need a hand saw to complete the cuts. Portable saws offer solid options for creating accurate project parts without a table saw. You’ll find that bringing the tool to the workpiece an easier way to function. Not to mention that your back will thank you.
