These handy router bits put pro-quality raised panels at your fingertips. Once you give them a try, you’ll be sold.
Not too long ago, you only had a couple of options for making solid-wood raised panels. You could shape them on the table saw, which can be a little tricky and requires a lot of cleanup after the profiles are cut. Or, you could outfit your shop with a pricey shaper and cutter needed for the job. But now you have a third option that gives shaper-quality results for a modest cost panel-raising router bits.
With the increasing popularity of router use, most manufacturers now offer high-quality raised-panel bits for use on the router table. These versatile bits allow you to make raised panels every bit as good as those on top quality furniture or cabinets. The setup and use is quick and easy, and you get smooth, crisply cut profiles that require only light finish sanding. An added bonus is a smorgasbord of profiles to choose from and two styles of bits that offer different cutting techniques to match your tools and work habits.
TWO STYLES.
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| Vertical | Horizontal |
The photo shows examples of the two styles of raised-panel bits — vertical cutting and horizontal cutting. And although they do pretty much the same thing, they each have pros and cons that needs some explanation.
VERTICAL.
As you can see, the cutting edges or profile of the vertical raised-panel bit are oriented up and down along the length of the 3"-plus long bit. So to rout the profile, you hold the panel on edge as you pass it across the bit.
The main advantage to this type of bit is that its relatively small diameter (in comparison to the horizontal style) allows you to use a smaller hp router to make the cuts. And for a lot of woodworkers, these bits look more much familiar and are less intimidating than their horizontal-cutting counterparts.
HORIZONTAL.
The cutting edges of a large-diameter horizontal bit extend outward along the top side of beefy wings. Compared to the common profile bits you may be used to, these look like monsters — 21⁄2" to 31⁄2" in diameter. When routing a profile with a horizontal bit, the panel is held flat on the table, face side down. The large wings sweep across the surface to create a very smooth profile.
Horizontal bits are a little more versatile — you can make raised panels with curved edges. They’ll also give you a slightly cleaner cut. The drawback is that you’ll need the right router and table setup.
MANY PROFILES.
Both types of raised-panel bits offer a good variety of profiles — a style to fit any project. You can pick from a traditional straight bevel, deep cove, classic ogee, or even compound profiles.
One nice feature they all share is that they create a flat tongue around the edge of the panel. The advantage to this is illustrated in the detail drawings above. A flat tongue makes it easier to fit the panel to the rail and stile grooves. And unlike a beveled edge, the tongue stays snug as the panel shrinks and swells. You avoid a loose, rattling panel or one that swells and stresses the joints.
RAISED PANEL BASICS.
Before discussing how to use each type of raised-panel bit on the following pages, I’ll mention a few general points about making raised panels. These are the things you need to think about before you set up the router table.
SIZING THE PANEL.
Starting with a panel that’s sized correctly is pretty important. You need to consider the panel’s overall length, width and thickness. As I referred to before, a solid wood raised panel is going to shrink and swell in width with changes in seasonal humidity. As it picks up moisture from humid air, the panel will expand a bit. And likewise, it will shrink as the air dries out. So the width of the panel needs to be sized to allow this wood movement without damage to the frame or the panel. (This is also a factor in the assembly, as you’ll see later.)
A GAP.
The idea is to leave a small gap between the panel and the bottom of the groove along each side to accommodate any expansion. The drawings above give you the idea. A 1⁄16" gap is a good starting point, but this can vary depending on the width of the panel or even the type of wood you’re using.
A CONSISTENT PROFILE.
The panel won’t shrink and swell along its length (along the grain). But the catch is that you want the raised profile to be consistent around all four sides. To make this happen, the panel should be sized to create an equal gap in the groove at the top, bottom, and the two sides. This detail also ensures that the intersecting profiles at the corners of the panel and the corners of the frame will match up.
PANEL THICKNESS.
The thickness of the panel that you’ll need depends on two factors — the width of the groove in the rails and stiles, and the depth of the bit profile. First, you want the tongue around the edges of the panel to be a good fit in the groove. The bit profiles are designed around a standard 1⁄4"-wide tongue.
But the depth of cut made by the different bit profiles varies to a fair degree. The traditional-style profile shown below requires a panel with a total thickness of 5⁄8" (1⁄4" for the tongue plus a 3⁄8"-deep profile). To make a raised panel using the ogee with bead bit (see profile below), you’ll need a panel over 3⁄4" thick. Keep this in mind. The thickness of the panel can affect the layout of the joinery and whether the front of the panel is recessed, flush to, or proud of the rails and stiles.
Using a Horizontal Bit.
Once you get past the intimidating size of a horizontal style bit and give one a try, you’ll be mighty impressed. With the proper setup and technique, they’re easy to use, perfectly safe, and the smooth, clean profile can’t be beat.
A BIG ROUTER.
But using a horizontal bit does have a few special challenges or requirements. The first of these is a router that will handle the job. The mass and large cutting diameter of the bit means you’ll need a router with two important features — plenty of horsepower (21⁄2-hp minimum) and variable speed operation. The maximum recommended speed for the largest of these bits is 12,000 to 14,000 RPM.
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| This heavy-duty, 31⁄4-hp variable speed router will easily handle the largest horizontal-style bit. |
ROUTER TABLE SETUP.
The second requirement leads to a look at the setup of the router table.
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| A push pad keeps your fingers away from the bit while making it easier to keep the panel flat on the table and tight to the fence. |
As you can imagine, these bits need a “manhole sized” opening in the table. An insert plate with interchangeable throat collars is the best way to fill this bill. And even though the bit has a guide bearing, I like to set the fence in line with the bearing as an extra guide and to cover the back side of the bit. A split fence, like that shown above, gives you this flexibility.
CUTTING THE PROFILE.
Once the router table is set up, the technique used to cut the profile is pretty familiar. The key here is to do the job with multiple passes. You start with the bit set low, then raise it between each series of passes to cut the profile to full depth.
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| Raise the Bit. Cut the panel profile to full depth by raising the bit between each series of passes. |
Since you’re not cutting the full profile, the initial cuts can be fairly deep. Start with a cut across one end, then turn the panel counter-clockwise to cut each edge in turn. During the cuts, the large bit is completely covered by the panel and the fence, so the feed is a lot more “comfortable” than you might think. However, using a push pad or two will make it easier to keep the panel flat on the table and tight against the fence and bearing. The cuts are surprisingly effortless. Rather than small chips, the waste comes off as fine shavings.
Along with a full, smooth profile, the second goal is to size the tongue for a snug fit in the frame grooves. The trick to this is to start testing the fit directly once you get close. Sneak up on final thickness with small height adjustments. For a sure-fire way to get a snug fit, take a look at the box below.
Another Option: Horizontal Bit with a Back Cutter
This odd-looking bit at is a “souped up” style of horizontal raised-panel bit. It has a back cutter on the end of the shank separated from the profile cutter by a bearing. The trick is that while the raised-panel profile is being formed, the back cutters relieve the back of the panel to form the tongue. The advantage to this all-in-one operation is that an accurately sized tongue is almost automatic.
To get the benefit out of this style of horizontal bit, you’ll need to use a different cutting technique. Since you’re cutting on both sides of the panel at the same time, you can’t raise the bit to deepen the profile, as described above. You have to start with the bit at full height and either cut the profile with a single pass, or work in from the edges with multiple passes. The Amana bit shown makes the job easier by including a large and small bearing. You use the large bearing to make the first pass, then install the small bearing to complete the profile.
Raised Panels with a Vertical Bit
Due to their smaller size, ease of use, and less demanding router requirement, vertical style raised-panel bits are the first choice of many woodworkers. You’ll find that the “scale” of these bits is comparable to some of the heftier profile bits you have. And although you may not get quite the quality of cut that a horizontal bit will produce, it’s still very good. A bonus is that the cost of a vertical bit is easier on the budget ($40 to $60 range).
ANY ROUTER.
As I mentioned, vertical raised-panel bits can be used with just about any standard router of 1-hp or better. And due to their much smaller diameter, you can run these bits at typical router speeds of 22,000 RPM or more.
Although, your router will have to accept a 1⁄2" collet to hold the bit.
THE ROUTER TABLE SETUP.
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| A tall fence and a featherboard supported by a spacer make routing the profile easier. |
One of the keys to cutting a clean profile with a vertical style bit is firm, steady control of the upright panel. The photo at right shows how I adapt the router table for this job. First, for better support, you’ll want to attach a tall auxiliary fence with a tall bit opening to your stock fence. And I like to position a “raised” featherboard to apply gentle pressure to the panel as I make the cuts. It makes feeding the panel easier and more consistent.
SIMPLE TECHNIQUE.
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| Move the Fence. Make a shallow cut on all four edges, move the fence back and repeat the process. |
The technique used to cut the profile is pretty easy to follow. The gist is that you’re going to start with the bit set at full height. Then you work back into the panel by adjusting the position of the fence. This simple routine allows you to size the tongue accurately and achieve the smoothest profile.
LIGHT PASSES.
To begin, most of the cutting edge of the bit is buried in the fence. Make a slow, steady cut across one end of the panel. Rotating the panel clockwise (toward you), follow with cuts along the remaining three edges. Now you move the fence back, exposing more of the cutting edge, and do it all over again. When the bit starts to cut along its full length, you’ll want to lighten up on the depth of cut to minimize any chipout. If you hear and feel serious chipping and “chatter,” it’s a sign that you’re cutting too deep.
Sneak up on the final thickness of the tongue and complete the profile with a very light cleanup pass. And then check to see that the tongue and profile are cut to the same depth on all sides. An extra pass or two applying a little more sideways pressure to the panel may be necessary to even up the corners.
EVERYDAY DETAIL.
In my book, any tool that turns a difficult technique into an everyday detail is certainly one worth having. And I guarantee raised-panel bits fall into this category.
Assembly: A Good Compromise
Gluing up a frame and solid wood raised-panel assembly requires finding a balance between two important goals. On the one hand, the panel should be allowed to expand and contract freely across the grain. So to avoid the risk of cracking the panel or popping the joints, you don’t want to glue it rigidly into the frame grooves. But on the other hand, you want to keep the panel from shifting or rattling annoyingly in the frame.
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The solution is a simple compromise shown in the inset photo here. I apply a short bead of glue (about 1" long) through the center of the upper and lower rails along the back edge of the groove. The glue keeps the panel centered while allowing it to expand and contract freely.
