Make Custom Wood Molding with a Table Saw and Router Table
Adding decorative molding is one of the easiest ways to give a woodworking project a finished, professional look. Whether you're trimming a cabinet, framing a panel, or adding detail to a piece of furniture, a simple molding profile can make a big difference.
But finding the right molding at a home center isn't always easy. The available profiles may not match your project, and specialty molding can get expensive.
Fortunately, you can make your own custom wood molding with two common woodworking tools: a table saw and a router table.
I used this technique to make a strip of molding for a panel assembled from car siding boards. The molding combines crisp, stepped fillets with a smooth cove, creating a traditional profile that works well with many furniture and cabinet styles.
And the best part? You don't need a specialty molding bit. A standard core box router bit and a few table saw cuts are all it takes.
Start with a Wide Molding Blank
The secret to making small molding safely and accurately is to begin with a workpiece that's wider than the finished strip.
Rather than trying to shape a narrow piece of wood, you'll create the decorative profile along the edge of a wider board. Once all the cuts are complete, you can rip the molding to its final width.
This approach provides plenty of material to support the workpiece against the table saw fence and router table.
Choose a straight, flat board with enough extra width for safe handling and the final rip cut.
Step 1: Cut the First Fillet at the Table Saw
The first step is to define one of the small, square-edged details in the molding profile.
These narrow, flat steps are called fillets. They create crisp transitions between the decorative shapes and give the finished molding a more refined appearance.
Set up your table saw to cut a shallow kerf along the edge of the molding blank.
A sharp rip blade is a good choice because it produces a clean cut with square shoulders.
The depth and position of the kerf determine the size of the first fillet, so make a test cut in scrap stock before cutting your molding blank.
Step 2: Create the Remaining Fillets
Next, stand the workpiece on edge to make the additional cuts that define the stepped portion of the profile.
Adjust the blade height and fence position to establish the remaining fillets.
These cuts create the square shoulders that will frame the curved cove.
Keep the workpiece firmly supported against the fence throughout the cut. Use a suitable push block or auxiliary fence when needed, and avoid setups that place your hands close to the blade.
Take your time with these cuts. Consistent fillet widths and clean, square shoulders are what give the finished molding its crisp appearance.
Step 3: Rout the Cove Profile
With the fillets established, it's time to create the curved portion of the molding.
Install a core box bit in your router table. The rounded cutting profile creates a smooth, concave cove between the stepped details.
Position the fence to locate the cove on the edge of the molding blank.
Rather than routing the entire profile in one pass, remove the waste gradually.
Start with the bit set for a shallow cut, then raise it slightly between passes until the cove reaches its final depth.
Taking several light passes reduces the load on the bit and helps produce a cleaner, smoother surface.
Use featherboards or other appropriate workholding accessories to keep the blank firmly against the fence and table, and feed the stock against the bit's rotation.
Once the cove is complete, inspect the profile for any rough spots or machining marks.
Step 4: Rip the Molding to Final Width
After the decorative profile is finished, return to the table saw to separate the molding from the wider blank.
Set the rip fence for the desired molding width and make the final rip cut.
Because the profile was shaped while the workpiece was still wide, you can avoid handling a narrow strip during the earlier machining operations.
Plan the final cut so the molding and offcut can move freely without becoming trapped between the blade and fence. Use appropriate push sticks and outfeed support.
The result is a strip of custom molding with crisp fillets and a smooth cove.
Step 5: Sand and Finish the Molding
The final step is to sand the molding smooth.
Start by lightly sanding the routed cove to remove any machining marks. A small piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel or other curved sanding block can help maintain the shape of the profile.
Then sand the flat surfaces and fillets, taking care not to round over their crisp edges.
Once the molding is smooth, it's ready to cut to length, install, and finish to match your project.
Custom Molding Without Specialty Router Bits
Making your own molding gives you the freedom to match the size, style, and wood species of your project.
You can also change the appearance of the profile by adjusting the size of the fillets, the depth of the cove, or the overall width of the molding.
And since the entire process uses a table saw and a common router bit, there's no need to invest in a collection of expensive specialty cutters.
It's a simple technique that can add a custom touch to cabinets, furniture, wall panels, and many other woodworking projects.
Create Custom Routed Picture Frame Moldings with Simple Shop Tools
Once you've mastered making decorative molding for cabinets and furniture, why not use the same tools to create your own picture frames?
In Create Custom Routed Picture Frame Moldings with Simple Shop Tools, you'll learn how to combine router table and table saw techniques to make distinctive molding profiles for picture frames. The accompanying video demonstrates the process, making it easy to follow along in your own shop.
Whether you're framing a favorite family photo, a piece of artwork, or a special woodworking project, making your own molding lets you choose the wood, profile, and proportions for a truly custom result.
LEARN TO MAKE CUSTOM PICTURE FRAME MOLDINGS → Take Your Custom Molding Skills a Step Further
Cabinetmaker's Workbench
Want to see how this decorative molding can enhance a larger woodworking project? Our Cabinetmaker's Workbench features shop-made car siding and custom trim molding that give this traditional workbench its timeless appearance.
Inspired by classic cabinetmakers' benches, this heavy-duty project combines a solid-wood top, face vise, custom tail vise, and sturdy mortise-and-tenon construction. Optional drawers and under-bench storage add even more functionality.
GET THE CABINETMAKER'S WORKBENCH PLANS → Put Your Custom Molding Skills to Work
With detailed, step-by-step woodworking plans, you can build a workbench that's as practical as it is attractive — and put your custom molding skills to use along the way.
