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How To Use a Router Inlay Kit

By: Phil Huber
The art of inlaying decorative wooden details into a piece of furniture has been a hallmark of fine craftsmanship for centuries. Today, all you need is a plunge router and a simple inlay kit. The secret to getting great results lies in the design of the inlay kit.

The art of inlaying decorative wooden details into a piece of furniture has been a hallmark of fine craftsmanship for centuries. Traditionally, those inlays were painstakingly crafted to fit into hand carved and chiseled recesses. But today you have another option available to you. All you need is a plunge router and a simple inlay kit.

THE INLAY KIT.

decorative inlay kit locking ring, 1/8 downcut spiral bit, quick change sleeve, bushing bit, centering pin The inlay kit centers around a guide bushing that installs in the baseplate of your router. It works with a specific bit to shape snug-fitting details.

The secret to getting great results lies in the design of the inlay kit. It starts with a brass guide bushing that screws into the base of your router (like the ones you’d use with a dovetail jig). A removable sleeve slips over the bushing and is held in place by an internal O-ring.

The kit contains two other items: a downcut spiral bit (for clean edges), and a centering pin that ensures the bushing is installed concentric to the router’s collet. The latter makes the routing process more consistent.

The offset created by the sleeve matches the diameter of the spiral router bit. The removable sleeve allows you to rout the inlay and the matching recess with only one template. This ensures a perfect-fitting inlay every time you use it.

TEMPLATES.

You can buy acrylic templates like the “bowtie” shown in the upper photo on the previous page. These offer good ideas to get you started. However, to get the most out of the kit, you can customize the concept by making your own template designs from 1⁄4" hardboard or MDF.

The process of making an inlay template is the same as any other template you’ve made before. One detail to keep in mind is that the template opening isn’t the final size of the inlay recess and piece. You need to account for the offset created by the bushing and the sleeve. This means the template opening is larger than the size of the inlay piece.

MAKE YOUR OWN TEMPLATE & PATTERN

inlay template made with centerlines The Template. Centerlines drawn on a shopmade template allow you to position the template for each step. compare workpiece of inlay to template Alignment. Match the layout lines on the workpiece with the marks on the template to keep the inlay recess located correctly on the workpiece. inlay star 9 pointed pattern nearly finished except for 1 piece left Patterns. Combining careful layout lines, the template, and the routing process allows you to form large, complex patterns by repeating simple steps.

GETTING STARTED

As you can see above, the template and bushing kit make inlay work pretty straightforward. However, for that to happen, you’ll need to set up your router and the workpiece.

ROUTER SETTINGS.

You start by fitting the centering post into the router’s collet. Loosely install the bushing in the baseplate. Lower the centering pin until it extends into the bushing. Now you can tighten the locking ring to secure the bushing. This way, you’ll be assured that the bit is centered in the bushing.

Skipping this process can result in small deviations as you move the router around the inside of the template. Those deviations will show up as visible gaps in your finished inlay. Remove the pin from the collet and replace it with the downcut bit.

WORKPIECE LAYOUT.

To keep the inlay oriented properly, it’s a good idea to use layout marks. I like to mark centerlines on each workpiece and on the template itself. This is shown in the photos on page 13. Then it’s just a matter of aligning the marks and attaching the template to the workpiece with some double-sided tape.

ROUTING PROCESS

The routing process is done in two steps: routing the recess, then shaping the inlay piece. There are some important differences to be aware of. The drawings highlight the steps.

STEP-BY-STEP: MAKING INLAYS

illustration of step 1 Rout the Shape. Begin by attaching the template to the piece with double-sided tape. With the bushing installed on the router and the bit set to a depth of 1⁄8", rout the outline. Keep the bushing tight against the template as you change directions. illustration of step 2: route the shape Clean out the Recess. Carefully move the router around the recess to remove all the wood and leave a flat bottom. illustration of step 3: remove waste Cut the Inlay. With the template attached to the inlay material, remove the sleeve and rout counterclockwise around the template. Make sure to keep the router flat, or it will gouge the inlay. Raise the bit before removing the router. illustration of step 4: dig out inlay piece Free the Inlay Piece. At the band saw, resaw the stock to free the inlay pieces. Each piece should be a hair thicker than 1⁄8". Sillustration of step 5: make sure the fit of the inlay is goodillustration Refine the Fit. For a perfect fit, either round the edges of the inlay, or square the corners of the recess with a chisel.

ROUTING THE RECESS.

The recess is the most straightforward. With the sleeve on the bushing, turn on the router and lower it into the opening. Trace the router around the perimeter of the template. Then sweep back and forth to clear the remaining waste, as in Figures 1 and 2.

CUT THE INLAY.

To make a matching inlay piece, use the template as a window to find the right grain orientation on the blank. Then tape the template securely to the inlay blank. Now you can remove the sleeve from the bushing and carefully rout around the template to define the inlay (Figure 3).

Starting this cut is the trickiest stage of the process. If the bushing isn’t against the template as you tip it into the cut, you’ll spoil the inlay. A plunge router base can eliminate this problem. The next step is to move to the band saw and cut the inlay free from the blank, as in Figure 4.

ASSEMBLY.

Since the router bit cuts the outside of the inlay and the inside of the recess, the inlay pieces have sharp corners and the corners of the recess are rounded. You can either lightly sand the inlay to round the corners or use a chisel to square the corners in the recess (Figure 5).

Either way, be careful to remove only small amounts of wood and check the fit often as you go. When you have the fit you want, apply glue in the recess, especially around the sides, so it will seal tightly. Then cover the inlay with a waxed block of wood, tap the pieces in place, and clamp the assembly until the glue dries. You can finish the inlay by scraping or sanding the pieces flush.

The learning curve of using an inlay kit is short. With a little patience and this technique, you’ll be surprised at how quickly you can add a creative detail to a project.

Published: July 14, 2026
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Topics: jig, router, router table accessories, woodsmith 273, woodworking jigs

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