Just a few issues ago, Rob wrote an article about cutting dovetails by hand. So another article may seem surprising ... or redundant.
In that sense, a refresher seems appropriate. I’ve learned that when a project calls for thin, small parts, the dovetail-cutting process deviates enough from the “standard method” to almost be a different technique. It’s like comparing mortise and tenon joinery between a dining table and a cattle barn.
In this article, I aim to shine a light on the eccentricities. Every woodworker takes a unique approach to a task. You may want to refer to Rob’s article (or others) and find out what suits your skills, tools, and thought process. Then it’s time to start cutting.
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| Cutting dovetails in small, thin parts adds a few wrinkles to the usual joinery process. |
FORMING THE TAILS
Let’s start with a precondition: I cut dovetails tails first. That’s a preference that makes sense in my head. That’s what I show in these photos. The strategy that lies behind these steps applies to either tails first or pins first.
MATERIAL MATTERS.
One other item to consider is the material the dovetails are cut in. Basswood was used in the carving tote. This light, soft hardwood reacts in ways that similarly sized cherry or oak wouldn’t.
LAYOUT.
Hand cutting joinery depends on full and complete layout work. In order to know where and what you’re cutting, it has to be indicated on every piece.
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| Thickness. Set a marking gauge to match the thickness of the parts that you’re using. | Baselines. Scribe baselines on both faces and edges of all the parts. Several light passes form a crisp line. |
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| Mark the Tails. I use a fixed dovetail marker to lay out the slope and top edge of each tail. | Quick Cuts. With light pressure, make short strokes to saw down to the baseline right along the pencil lines. |
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| Waste Removal. A coping saw trims away most of the waste, staying off the baseline. | Chisel Cleanup. Use a mallet on the chisel to trim the waste to the baseline of the tails. |
There are three primary tools for this: first is a marking gauge. As you can see in Steps 1 and 2 below, I scribe a baseline for the joints on each end of the parts. The baseline matches the thickness of the mating parts.
In the basswood, this line was created in several light passes. Too much pressure forms a ragged line. Three light strokes gave me a fine line.
The second tool is a dovetail marker (Step 3). This fixed tool allows me to mark the slope of the tail on the face and the square line on the end with two quick pencil strokes. That’s the third tool, by the way. Clarity leads to control. Mark the waste to guide the sawing (Step 4). I also take some time to label parts so that each part has a mate.
SAWING.
Steps 3-5 show the tasks you’ve been anticipating. The usual hand saw advice is to take full strokes. You’ll blow past the baseline in basswood doing that. Short nibbles keep you cutting with control.
A coping saw opens the space between tails for chisel work. I use a newly sharpened chisel that closely matches the spacing. Take thin cuts working from both faces. Step your way back to the baseline to avoid tearout.
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| Take a few minutes to put a keen edge on a knife and a pair of chisels for cutting and trimming dovetails. | The grain on this piece was softer on the left side and resulted in more crushing on end grain. Tighter grain on the right left a cleaner look. |
PINS COME NEXT
The second part of the joint is the pins. Where the tails are marked with a layout approach, pins result from a transfer approach. What I mean is that whatever the plans may say, if you’ve cut tails first, they become the pattern for marking the pins.
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| Knife Work. Trace the sides of each tail onto the end of the mating pin board with a knife. | Square Lines. Align a square to the knifed line and drop a knife line down to the baseline. |
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| Saw the Pins. Stay on the waste side of the lines to form the sides of the pins with a back saw. | Coping Cuts. Rotate the coping saw to cut parallel with the angle of the pins while removing the waste. |
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| To the Baseline. Like before, chisel back to the baseline keeping the chisel square to the face. | Pare to Fine-Tune. Work with a chisel or a knife to trim away waste and clean up the corners of the recesses. |
Steps 7 and 8 show this in action. I clamp a strip of hardboard along the baseline of the tail board. This registers the parts. Then I use a thin, freshly sharpened knife to trace the shape of the tails onto the pin board. Take care so you don’t cut into the tails as you go. Keep the back of the knife flat against the tail side.
A small square now guides the knife to complete the pin shape down the face of the mating piece. Once again, take a moment to mark the waste areas. At this stage confusion is easy.
MORE SAWING.
As you pick up the saw to form the sides of the pins, you want to leave the line that you scribed (Step 9). Cutting through both sides of the line results in a loose fit. The knife line represents the outer edge of the pin. I use a coping saw to remove waste. Angle the saw to mimic the slope of the pins at the end of the piece, as shown in Step 10.
TRIM & SHAVE.
Once you’ve cleaned down to the baselines, give the joint a test fit. This will show you places where you need to trim with a chisel or your knife. I’ve mentioned it already: a sharp knife and chisel give you more accuracy and leave cleaner surfaces, as shown in Steps 11 and 12.
That said, don’t feel too bad about some crushed end grain like you see in the upper right photo on the previous page. Since it’s end grain, it doesn’t contribute to the strength of the joint-and is hidden when the joints are assembled.
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| Apply Glue. A small, fine brush allows you to apply a thin coat of liquid hide glue to the pins. |
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| Press Fit. Use hand pressure to get the tail board started. The hide glue eases the fit of tight joints. |
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| A Mallet, Lightly. Tap stubborn joints with a mallet. If necessary, use a scrap block to prevent dents. |
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| Final Two Sides. Both ends of the opposite tail board must go in at nearly the same time. Glue each set of pins, thanking your past self for choosing liquid hide glue. |
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| Fit & Check. Tap the joints together keeping an eye on the baselines of the joints. Once they close, there’s no need for further persuasion. Check for square, then just walk away. |
GLUE UP.
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| One of the joys of working with softer wood species is that the fibers compress creating a clean, tight fit. |
If you can get the joints to seat just a little, have no fear. The soft basswood will compress to form a tight fit. So now you can grab a glue bottle and brush. The steps on this page walk through the process. I used liquid hide glue to give me plenty of working time. The glue also lubricates tight joints. Focus on one corner at a time. That is until you get to the final side. Here both come together in quick succession (Step 16).
I rarely use clamps. Check for square, shifting the parts into shape. Then let them be until the glue dries. A final sanding reveals your handiwork.
