This decorative wooden box gets its eye-catching look from a grid of individual hardwood tiles applied to the lid and sides. Built with a stable plywood and veneer core and wrapped in richly figured black limba, the box looks complex but relies on straightforward box-making techniques and careful repetition.
The tiled pattern was the idea that drove the entire design. When Chris Fitch began developing the project, he wanted to create a small wooden box that emphasized applied details. That eventually led to the grid of rounded hardwood tiles that gives the finished box its distinctive texture and appearance.
Because dozens of individual tiles cover the surface, they need a stable foundation. Despite its solid-wood appearance, the heart of the box is plywood layered with solid wood and veneer. This construction provides a dependable base for the tiles while allowing the edges and interior to maintain the look of solid hardwood.
We chose black limba for its bold figure and dark streaks, which pair especially well with the tiled design. It's also relatively easy to work with — an advantage when making so many small parts. Other figured hardwoods would work just as well, and using two contrasting species could create an entirely different look. The result is a distinctive woodworking project that's much easier to build than its intricate appearance suggests.
Mitered joinery begins the box, but that’s just the start of the story on this lid design.
Clever use of veneer and solid wood strips disguises the plywood construction of this box.
A LAYERED & MITERED BOX
The first half of this tiled box project is making the box itself. And, as you can see, this isn’t your typical box design.
BLANK ASSEMBLY
The sides and ends of the box are each two plywood layers sandwiching a layer of solid wood, with veneer on both faces. The purpose of this is to give ourselves a stable base for the tiles while still appearing as solid wood. Begin by gluing the strips into a blank about four feet long. It’s best to make the joinery on these blanks before they’re separated.
One groove at the bottom on the inner face will accept the bottom panel of the box. The other two begin to form the rabbets for the lipped lid. I made these at the table saw using a dado blade, as in Figure 1. A miter also needs to be cut along the inner face of the upper edge to accept the top.
Now, the parts can be separated from the blank. Miter their ends while cutting them to length (Figure 2). The rip fence can be used to ensure the sides and ends are identical to their partner, but you’ll need to attach a stop block in front of the blade so the cutoff piece won’t get trapped by the fence.
ASSEMBLING THE BOX
We’ll need to bring the box together before we separate it into its final form. First, cut the bottom panel to size. Then, glue up the sides and ends of the box around it. While the glue dries, you can begin working on the multi-layered top.
THE TOP
The top panel is a veneered piece of plywood. After it’s been veneered and cut to size, miter its perimeter to fit the miters of the box. Test the fit with the other parts and, once you’re happy, glue it on top.
SEPARATE THE LID
After the top is glued on and the clamps come off, it’s time to separate the lid. Remove the thin strip of waste shown in detail ‘a’ to create the rabbets that form the lid and box. After you’ve separated the parts, sand the corners on the box so the lid slides on easily.
A GRID OF TILES
With the box assembled, it’s time to add the tiles. Before applying them, however, you’ll need to make three different types.
CUTTING SMALL PARTS
You can see the tiles we’ll be working with in details ‘a’ and ‘b’. The three kinds of tiles are all the same size, and they all feature roundovers on their upper edges. Where they differ is in the miters on their bottoms. Begin by cutting the tiles to size. First, I planed the stock down and cut several strips to width.
Make sure you have enough material to cut a few spares. Spare parts are always handy to have in case of tearout or other mishaps, but we’ll also be using them as spacers shortly. To cut the tiles to length, I used a small parts sled for the table saw, as you can see in Figure 1.
This consists of a plywood base with a front and back fence. Underneath, hardwood runners slide in the miter slots to keep the sled on track. Once all the tiles are cut, it’s time to round them over. I did this at the router table using a roundover bit. Due to their small size, I held the tiles in a wood handscrew clamp.
Before adding the miters, sort the tiles into three piles: corner tiles, edge tiles, and inner tiles. The inner tiles are done; set them aside. As for the others, the corner tiles need two miters (as they’re adjacent to two other tiles) and the edge tiles need one miter (since they’re adjacent to one other tile). I used another sled for the table saw, but this time with a 45° kerf (Figure 2).
APPLYING THE TILES
To attach the tiles, use a quick-set glue, like Titebond’s Speed Set. Begin at the corners. Apply a dot of glue to the bottom of a tile and hold it in place until the glue sets. Next, the corners can be used as a reference for the edge tiles. Use a ruler as a straightedge and a spare tile as a spacer, then glue the edge tiles in place, working towards the center. Finally, the inner tiles can be glued on. As before, a ruler used as a straight-edge and a spare tile spacer should get you through.
ADDING THE HANDLE
To finish up this box, we’ll need a handle to complement our lid. This begins as a small hardwood block. After sizing it, there are two tasks. First off, rout roundovers along the upper edges (detail ‘a’). Next, we’ll need to cut the coves beneath to give your fingertips somewhere to grip.
This was done at the router table with a cove bit. As with the tiles, I used a handscrew clamp to hold the workpiece and keep my fingers away from the bit. The cove bit takes off a good amount of material, so it’s smart to make these cuts in multiple passes. I also find it best to make the two cuts across the grain first, that way chipout will be removed by the lengthwise cuts.
With that, the handle is complete. Quick set glue attaches it to the box just as well as it does the tiles, so place a dollop on the bottom and press it down until it sets. Once it’s dry, your box is finished, and all that remains is to figure out what to store in this striking new piece.
