dress up a project with Bead Molding
This simple profile will add eye-catching detail to a project with just a small investment in time and effort.
Of all the molding profiles available to woodworkers, one of the most versatile (and my personal favorite) has to be the humble bead. A bead is simply a small, half-round profile. It adds subtle decoration that easily blends with many types and styles of project. You notice a bead, but it doesn’t scream at you.
TYPES OF BEADS.
There are two general types of beads — the side bead and the cock bead. The distinction depends on how the rounded bead relates to the adjoining surface.
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| Quirk Side Bead. Here, a narrow, square channel distinctly separates the bead. | Softer Side Bead. The V-groove makes the bead look more connected. | Cock Bead. A cock bead sits proud of the surface to frame the workpiece or add depth. |
SIDE BEAD.
A side bead sits flush to or just below the surface. The left and middle drawing below show two slightly different variations.
In both cases you’ll notice that the rounded bead is set apart by a narrow channel. The left example shows a squared channel referred to as a quirk. This quirk creates a visual shadow line and a pretty distinct separation from the bordering surface. This can be helpful when the bead is used between two elements on a project.
A second option is to separate the side bead with a simple V-groove (middle drawing). This gives you a softer look, with the bead appearing to be more closely connected. A quirk bead can be cut directly into the workpiece (the easiest option), or it can be made and added as a separate piece. If you’re going to use a bead separated with a V-groove, it works best to cut it right into the edge.
COCK BEAD.
A cock bead is different in that it sits proud of the adjoining surface, as in the right drawing below. So a cock bead can be used to add both visual depth as well as detail to your project.
A cock bead butts directly against the mating edge with no gap. It looks best if the half-round profile of the bead sits just proud of the surface, as in the right drawing. And since a cock bead is proud of the surface, it’s much easier to make and add as a separate piece.
A GOOD-LOOKING BEAD.
Most times a bead detail looks best if it’s kept pretty small. Unless I’m using a bead as an element in a large molding, I always make them 1⁄4" dia. or less. And it might seem obvious, but the shape of a bead is important also. You want the bead to be a perfect half circle — not flat on top or lopsided.
MAKING A BEAD.
There are a number of ways to make a bead. The traditional method is to use a molding plane or a scratch stock. But unless you’re a purist, the router table and a simple beading bit can’t be beat for cutting a smooth bead quickly. The box below shows how to make a cock bead or an edge bead.
ON YOUR PROJECT
Beyond the basics, the question is how to work a bead into the design of a project. And as I mentioned, you have lots of choices.
A CABINET FRONT.
The main drawing on the opposite page shows how a bead can be used to add detail to an otherwise plain cabinet front. First, notice the side bead mitered around the inside of the face frame. As well as being decorative, this feature helps disguise the gap around the doors.
Along the same lines, you can cut an edge bead into one of the two meeting door stiles. You’re creating an attractive detail while at the same time hiding the gap. Your eye is naturally drawn to the cock bead that frames the door panels. A bead can very easily be mitered to fit and glued in place after the door is completely assembled, turning a plain door into one with depth and detail.
The final bead detail on the cabinet is one that blends so well you hardly notice it. A cock bead added to the base of the crown serves to create a soft transition between the case and the molding.
photo table
A NOT SO PLAIN TABLE FRAME.
A look at the drawing above will give you a couple of ideas on how to dress up a simple table frame. When building a table, it’s nice to keep things simple by using square legs. But a square leg isn’t very interesting. The solution — cut a side bead on the two outside faces to add a little detail. At the same time you’re creating a visual transition between the leg and apron.
And as you can see, the same idea works to add a little visual appeal to a plain table apron. Here you have the option of adding a cock bead as shown, or simply cutting a side bead into this piece.
A NICER DRAWER FRONT.
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| Mitered Cock Bead. This traditional technique frames a drawer front. | A Simple Front. A side bead at the top and bottom adds a rustic look. |
Drawers are pretty essential to cabinetry, but the large flat surface of a drawer front can sometimes look pretty dull. A bead can solve the problem in a couple of ways. On a formal project, you can cut a rabbet around the perimeter of the drawer and miter a small cock bead to fit (upper right drawing). This traditional technique serves to frame the plain drawer front and make it into a focal point of the project.
For an easier approach and a slightly more “casual” look, simply cut a bead into the top and bottom edges of the drawer front, as shown in the lower drawing. You’ll soften the hard edges, help hide the necessary gaps and break up the flat front, all with a minimal amount of work.
I think you’ll find that once you start incorporating bead molding as a decorative feature on your projects, you’ll be hooked. It’s easy to do, looks great, and the possibilities are almost endless.
How-To: Two Ways to Make Bead Molding
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| Cock Beading. Making cock beading is a simple two-step process. I start by using a beading bit in the router table to rout the profile on both edges of a thin, extra-wide blank. Then the bead can be carefully ripped to width at the table saw. |
| Edge Bead. To rout an edge bead, hold the workpiece upright against the fence of the router table and make a single pass. |
