A router table is only as accurate as the surface supporting the workpiece. If the insert plate moves in its opening or doesn't sit flush with the surrounding tabletop, even a good router table can become frustrating to use.
Fortunately, both problems are easy to diagnose and usually easy to correct. A quick check of the insert plate can help keep workpieces moving smoothly across the table.
Check the Router Plate for Side-to-Side Movement
Start by checking how the insert plate fits in the opening.
The plate shouldn't move side to side or front to back once it's installed. Any play allows the plate — and therefore the router — to shift during use.
If you notice movement, the easiest solution is to shim the edge of the plate or the recess.
Clear packing tape works well. Apply one or more layers where needed until the plate fits snugly without being difficult to remove. The slick surface of the tape still allows the insert plate to slip in and out of the opening easily.
The goal isn't to wedge the plate tightly into place. You simply want to eliminate the wiggle room.
Make Sure the Insert Plate Is Flush
Once the plate fits snugly, check its height.
Place a straightedge across the tabletop and insert plate and check all four corners. The top of the plate should be flush with the surrounding router table.
If the plate sits too high, a workpiece can catch on its leading edge. If it sits too low, the edge of the recess can cause the same problem.
Fortunately, there are several ways to correct the height.
Option 1: Level the Plate With Tape
The simplest solution is to use tape as a shim.
Add layers of tape beneath the plate wherever it's sitting low. Check the surface again with a straightedge and continue adding or removing layers until the insert is flush with the tabletop.
It's inexpensive, requires no modification to the router table, and makes a good solution when only a small adjustment is required.
Option 2: Add Leveling Screws
For an adjustable solution, install leveling screws around the insert-plate recess.
These can be simple short woodscrews installed in countersunk pilot holes. The heads of the screws support the underside of the insert plate.
Turning each screw raises or lowers that corner of the plate. Work around the opening with a straightedge until the entire insert is flush with the tabletop.
This setup also makes it easy to readjust the plate later if necessary.
WOODSMITH TIP: Check All Four Corners. Don't assume that leveling one side means the entire plate is flush. Lay a straightedge across the plate in several directions and adjust each corner individually.
Option 3: Install Router Plate Levelers
A third option is to install a dedicated set of router insert plate levelers.
The levelers shown here fasten to the underside of the router table. Long set screws can then be adjusted up or down to fine-tune the height of the insert plate.
This provides more precise adjustment than temporary shims and makes future changes straightforward.
A Quick Router Table Checkup
It doesn't take long to check an insert plate, and the payoff is a smoother, more predictable router table.
Start with these two questions:
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Does the plate move in the opening? If so, shim the sides until the play disappears.
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Is the plate flush with the tabletop? Check it with a straightedge and correct any low spots with tape, leveling screws, or dedicated plate levelers.
Once the plate fits snugly and sits flush, workpieces can travel smoothly across the table without catching at the insert — exactly what you want before making the first cut.
Get Smoother, Cleaner Edge Profiles
Now that your router table insert plate is level and running smoothly, make the most of that setup. Learn how to rout clean, crisp edge profiles using multiple light passes, the right routing sequence, and a few simple techniques for reducing end-grain chipout.
GET BETTER RESULTS AT THE ROUTER TABLE → Router Table Tips for Smooth, Chip-Free Edge Profiles
