There’s a lot to learn about woodworking. The subject can feel overwhelming frankly. One key piece of advice I was given was to pick a single technique and stick with it. This applies to sharpening, finishing, and joinery.
Developing this mindset has helped me build skills and confidence in what I make. From this level of competence, it’s easier to learn other skills. And that happens to be another nugget of wisdom: it’s a good idea to have a few options in your skillset in order meet a variety of woodworking challenges.
||
| ---------- |
|
|
|
|
|A jig and a stepped drill bit (top) allow you to drill a custom, angled hole for a pocket screw (bottom) creating a concealed joint.|
POCKET HOLE JOINERY.
One example that meets both of those aphorisms is pocket hole joinery. The technique offers a short learning curve and a wide variety of applications.
On extended family visits, I enjoy helping relatives tackle woodworking and home improvement projects. Pocket hole joinery has proven to be critical to getting those projects done during a short time and with excellent results. As a teacher, pocket hole joinery is one of the ideal ways to get folk introduced to the craft of woodworking.
For me, the main advantage is that the screws used to assemble workpieces are concealed from view (mostly).
An angled pilot hole is drilled into the back face of one of the pieces near the end. The shallow angle of the pilot hole allows the pocket screw to exit the end of the workpiece and enter the edge of the second piece, pulling them together. A pocket hole jig is necessary to drill the angled pocket holes accurately. With a drill and a jig, you’re all set.
Drill a hole, drive a screw — it’s as easy as that. Let’s take a look at how this can be put to use in some typical woodworking tasks.
MAKING PANELS.
 |
| Use pocket screws as clamps for edge gluing panels. You can leave the screws in place after the glue dries or remove them. |
Gluing narrow boards into wide panels creates tabletops or case parts. Glue takes time to dry and each joint has to be held together throughout the process. On large panels this could require a lot of clamps and time. By drilling pocket holes in the underside of the pieces, you can drive a few screws across each joint, as shown in the right photo. The screws do the same work as the clamps. So not only can you get by with fewer clamps, you can also keep the project moving ahead without pausing for glue to dry fully.
CASES & CABINETS.
 |
 |
| Pocket screws work for assembling cases and face frames for speedy project builds. |
A lot of furniture making boils down to creating boxes: kitchen cabinets, dressers, and book cases to name a few. This is the realm of sheet materials like plywood and MDF. A row of pocket holes along the mating edge of the sheet allows you to make solid right-angle connections essential for cases. I like to space these holes every 4" to 6" in order to get a strong connection.
As the left photos show, you can use pocket screws to assemble solid-wood face frames. The lead photo on the previous page shows that many pocket hole jigs have closeset drilling guides that accommodate narrow (11/2") face frame stock.
Another set of holes and screws joins the face frame to the case. These holes can be located based on which surface is least visible in the completed project. My example shows the holes on the inside of the case. The drawers will keep the screws from being noticed.
 |
| In addition to installing dividers, pocket screws can be used in drawers and covered with a false front. |
For shelves and dividers, you may need to spend some extra time planning. The underside of shelves aren’t usually visible. So that’s a natural choice. On dividers, you may have to accept visible screw holes or cover the holes with plugs or trim pieces.
DON’T FORGET DRAWERS.
Drawers are another form of box that go along with many cabinet projects. Since you already have the pocket hole jig out, you can use it here, too. I like to drill the pocket holes in the drawer fronts and backs. In this orientation, the screws resist the forces applied to the drawer as it’s opened and closed repeatedly.
The rear face of the drawer back is rarely seen, so that’s a good place for the holes. For the front, I sometimes create the holes on the inside face. Or I drill them on the front and cover the screw holes with a glued-on false front.
BRANCHING OUT
If all you used pocket hole joinery for was creating panels and assembling cases, you’d more than justify having added a pocket hole jig to your joinery options. As I said at the beginning, a complete understanding of a technique allows you to put it to work in a range of applications. So let’s expand on what we’ve looked at to this point.
TABLES.
Solid cases make up a lot of project forms. Another common category is table construction. This can range from side and end tables to benches and desks. In general, you have thick legs joined to thinner (and usually narrower) aprons. This creates an elevated frame that supports a top or seat. The frame can also house drawers.
I recently built a Shaker-inspired entry table using pocket hole joinery through-out. The process builds on case construction. For tables, I drill the pocket holes in the ends of the aprons. The screws sink into the legs for strength.
The longer the legs, the more stress is applied to the leg-to-apron connection. So I like to add more screws, placing them closer together than I do on case construction to increase the strength of the assembly. You can see this in the photo at left.
OFFSETS.
 |
 |
| Placing a spacer underneath a table apron rail allows you to create an offset joint with the leg. |
Rarely are the outer surfaces of the legs and aprons flush. Instead there is a small offset. This serves as more than just a visual detail. It brings the apron closer to the center of the leg’s thick-ness allowing you to use a longer screw, which adds strength. (For more on screws, check out the box below.) The inset photo shows how to do this with a simple spacer. Here a piece of scrap 1/4" plywood rests under the apron while the assembly is clamped up. Once the screws are driven in, a corresponding 1/4" offset is formed.
INNER PIECES.
Besides the external parts of a table project, there are often unseen (but still vital) internal components.
In my table, there are drawer runners and kickers that keep the drawers running straight and true. By using pocket screws to install these, I can add them after the main table structure is assembled. This simplifies the assembly and lowers your stress.
You can even use pocket holes to attach tabletops to the base. It’s a traditional detail from a time when pockets were formed with a chisel or gouge.
MITERS & MORE.
 |
| Pocket screws reinforce miter joints and ease assembly. |
I’ll close with one last example. Miters are troublesome joints. One reason is that the angled surfaces tend to slide out of alignment during glueup. Not to mention, the joint faces are mostly end grain and not that strong. A couple pocket holes solve both those challenges.
Choosing the joinery to use on a project, or parts of a project, is a subjective decision. You have plenty of options to choose from. With a pocket hole jig in my shop, I have a way to quickly assemble parts when time is short. And I have a handy problem solver for tricky construction tasks.
Pocket hole Woodscrews
 panhed screws for thin stock |
 long screws for thicker projects parts and course thread screws for plywood and softwood |
 fine thread screws for hardwoods |
The screws used to assemble pocket hole joints aren’t the same as a typical flathead woodscrew, as you can see here. For most applications, a washerhead woodscrew is the right choice. The flat bearing surface under the head pulls the parts together without splitting. In parts that are 1/2" thick, use a panhead screw (lower right).
The thread pitch is important as well. Fine thread screws hold best in hardwoods. Coarse thread screws are for plywood, MDF, and softwood workpieces. Finally, the length of woodscrew you need is determined by the thickness of the parts to be joined.
