How to Choose Lumber for Woodworking Projects
Starting a new woodworking project is always exciting. And one of the best parts is heading to the lumberyard to choose the boards that will eventually become a piece of furniture, a cabinet, or another shop project.
But choosing the right lumber involves more than finding boards that look attractive.
The wood you select determines not only how the finished project looks, but also how easily the parts can be milled, joined, and assembled.
A board with beautiful figure may not be the best choice for every project. And lumber that looks straight and sound at first glance may have defects that create problems later.
Before loading up your next batch of hardwood, take a few minutes to work through these four lumber-buying tips.
1. Choose Wood Grain That Complements Your Project
When sorting through a rack of hardwood lumber, it's easy to be drawn to boards with dramatic grain patterns and unusual figure.
But remember that most boards will eventually be cut into smaller pieces and reassembled into a finished project.
A grain pattern that looks attractive across an entire board may become visually distracting when it's divided among rails, stiles, panels, and other components.
For many furniture projects, I prefer boards with straight, consistent grain.
Straight-grained boards often produce a more uniform appearance and allow the design of the furniture to stand out.
Highly figured wood, on the other hand, naturally draws attention to the material itself.
Neither approach is right or wrong.
The important thing is deciding whether you want the wood grain to be the focal point or a complementary part of the overall design.
Woodsmith Tip: Consider reserving your most highly figured boards for prominent areas, such as drawer fronts, door panels, or tabletops, while using more consistent grain for surrounding parts.
2. Match Lumber Color Before You Buy
Even boards of the same wood species can vary considerably in color.
Differences in growing conditions, heartwood and sapwood, and individual trees can create noticeable variations from one board to another.
These differences may become even more apparent after applying a finish.
Compare Boards Side by Side
Rather than selecting each board individually, pull several promising boards from the rack and arrange them next to one another.
This makes it easier to compare their color and grain patterns.
Try to select boards that work together visually, especially when they'll be used in the same panel or assembly.
For example, matching the color of adjacent boards can make a glued-up tabletop appear more uniform.
You don't necessarily need every board to look identical. But taking a little time to compare them can help prevent an unexpected contrast in the finished project.
3. Plan Your Project Parts Before Selecting Lumber
One of the most useful things you can do before visiting the lumberyard is review your project's cutting list.
Knowing the approximate sizes and quantities of the parts you need will help you choose boards more efficiently.
It also gives you an opportunity to think about how the grain will appear in the finished project.
Keep Related Parts Together
For example, you may want to cut the rails and stiles of a cabinet face frame from the same board.
This can help maintain a consistent appearance across the assembly.
Likewise, you might choose a particularly attractive board for drawer fronts or other highly visible components.
Lay Out Parts Before Cutting
Once you're back in the shop, arrange the boards and mark the locations of the individual parts.
Chalk works well for rough layout because the markings are easy to see and remove.
As you lay out the pieces, mark knots, checks, splits, and other defects that you'll want to avoid.
In some cases, it's easier to rough-cut parts with a jigsaw before bringing them to the table saw for final sizing.
This approach lets you make better use of the lumber while keeping important grain patterns in the right places.
4. Inspect Lumber for Defects
Before purchasing a board, take a close look at its condition.
Some defects are primarily cosmetic. Others can make a board difficult to mill accurately or unsuitable for certain project parts.
Common Lumber Defects to Look For
Bow: A lengthwise curve along the face of a board.
Crook: A lengthwise curve along the edge of a board.
Cup: A curve across the width of a board, giving it a shallow trough-like shape.
Twist: A condition where the corners of a board don't lie in the same plane.
Checks and splits: Cracks that develop in the wood, often near the ends of boards.
Knots: Areas where branches grew from the tree. Depending on their size and condition, knots may be decorative or create weaknesses in a workpiece.
Can You Still Use Lumber with Defects?
A defect doesn't automatically make a board unusable.
For example, a cupped board may be suitable for ripping into narrower pieces that can be flattened more easily.
A board with a mild bow or crook may yield useful shorter parts.
Knots and end checks can often be avoided by planning the cutting layout carefully.
However, severely twisted or distorted boards can require considerable milling and waste.
When possible, choose lumber that will require the least amount of correction to produce the parts you need.
Sight Down Each Board
A quick way to inspect lumber is to sight down its length.
Look along the edge to identify bow and along the face to check for crook and cup. Comparing the corners and edges can help reveal twist.
Taking a few moments to inspect each board can save considerable frustration once you're back in the shop.
Understanding Hardwood Lumber Thickness
When buying hardwood lumber, you'll often see thickness expressed in quarters.
For example, a board labeled 4/4 is referred to as four-quarter lumber.
This indicates a nominal rough thickness of approximately 1".
But if the lumberyard has surfaced the board, it will usually be thinner.
Why Is 4/4 Lumber Only About 3/4" Thick?
Rough-sawn lumber is typically sold according to its nominal thickness before surfacing.
When the lumber is planed smooth, material is removed from both faces.
As a result, a surfaced 4/4 board may measure approximately 3/4" thick rather than a full inch.
The amount removed depends on the board and the surfacing process.
Common Hardwood Lumber Thicknesses
The following are typical approximate thicknesses for surfaced hardwood lumber.
These measurements are useful guidelines, but actual thicknesses vary by supplier and whether the boards are sold rough, surfaced on one side, or surfaced on two sides.
Before buying, verify that the lumber is thick enough to yield your project's finished dimensions after milling.
A Little Planning Makes Better Woodworking Projects
Choosing lumber is one of the most important steps in building a successful woodworking project.
Taking the time to compare grain patterns, match colors, plan your cutting layout, and inspect boards for defects can make the entire building process go more smoothly.
You don't always need the most expensive or highly figured boards.
You need lumber that suits the design, provides the parts you need, and allows you to work efficiently.
The next time you visit the lumberyard, take your time. A few extra minutes selecting the right boards can make a noticeable difference in the finished project.
Making Your Own Cutting Diagrams
Choosing the right lumber is only the beginning. A well-planned cutting diagram helps you make the most of your boards while avoiding knots, splits, and other defects.
Learn how to organize your project parts, plan efficient cuts, and reduce wasted material before you start cutting.
LEARN TO MAKE CUTTING DIAGRAMS → Get More Project Parts from Every Board
