How to Build a Farmhouse Hall Bench with Storage
A well-designed bench is one of the most useful pieces of furniture you can add to an entryway, hallway, or mudroom. It provides a convenient place to sit while putting on shoes, helping the kids get ready, or taking a moment after coming through the door.
This farmhouse hall bench combines that everyday practicality with traditional woodworking details and generous storage.
Wide solid-wood planks form the seat and angled backrest, giving the bench its rustic appearance. Below the seat, deep drawers provide convenient storage for shoes, hats, gloves, pet supplies, and other items you want close to the door.
The design is built around sturdy frame assemblies connected by stretchers. Simple, reliable joinery keeps the construction manageable, while concealed undermount drawer slides preserve the bench's all-wood appearance.
Another advantage is the design's flexibility. By changing the length of the seat and backrest planks and adjusting the number of supporting frames, you can adapt the bench to fit your space.
Farmhouse Bench Design and Construction
The appeal of this project comes from its straightforward construction and the natural character of the wood.
Large, uninterrupted surfaces allow the grain to become a prominent design feature.
Elm was used for the bench shown here. The more figured boards were selected for the seat and backrest planks, while straighter-grained stock was used for the supporting frames and drawer fronts.
The result is a sturdy piece of furniture with a warm, rustic appearance.
A Bench That Fits Your Space
One of the advantages of this design is how easily it can be adjusted.
For a longer bench, extend the seat and backrest planks and add another supporting frame and stretcher.
For a shorter version, remove one section to create a compact hall bench.
The repeated frame assemblies make these adjustments relatively straightforward, although the joinery and support spacing should be checked whenever the dimensions change.
Concealed Storage Drawers
The drawers are a major part of what makes this bench useful.
They're wide and deep enough to hold everyday items, and the undermount slides provide smooth operation while remaining hidden from view.
The concealed hardware helps maintain the clean, traditional appearance of the finished piece.
Step 1: Build the Seat Frame Assemblies
The seat frames form the structural foundation of the bench.
They support the seat and backrest planks while also creating the sides of the drawer compartments.
Each frame consists of a shaped seatpan section and a backrest section joined with dowels.
Because these parts establish the shape of the finished bench, accurate layout and consistent shaping are important.
Prepare the Frame Blanks
Begin by preparing the blanks for the seatpan and backrest sections.
The seatpan blanks are relatively wide, so you'll likely need to edge-glue narrower boards to create the necessary width.
Once the panels are dry, trim the blanks to their required dimensions.
Before shaping them, drill the dowel holes that will connect the seatpan and backrest sections.
It's easier to drill these holes while the blanks are still square.
To keep the holes aligned, use a stop block along the drill press fence. Drill the corresponding holes in each part before changing the stop position.
This helps ensure the dowel joints line up during assembly.
Make Templates for the Curved Parts
The seatpan and backrest sections have distinctive shapes that establish the bench's seating angle.
The seatpan includes a triangular cutout that positions the seat planks.
The backrest section angles backward slightly to provide a more comfortable seating position.
Rather than laying out and shaping every piece individually, use templates to produce identical parts.
Hardboard or MDF works well for the templates.
Lay out the profiles according to the construction drawings, then rough-cut the shapes at the band saw or with a jigsaw.
Use a straightedge and a pattern-routing bit to clean up the edges.
Once the templates are complete, attach them to the corresponding blanks with double-sided tape.
Rough-cut each workpiece, leaving a little material outside the layout line. Then use a pattern bit or flush-trim bit to bring the part to its final shape.
Woodsmith Tip: Save the cutoffs from the lower rear edges of the backrest blanks. They'll come in handy as clamping supports during assembly.
Cut the Backrest Notches
After shaping the frame components, cut the notches that receive the rear seat plank.
These notches are made in the four backrest blanks using a dado blade at the table saw.
Accurate positioning is important, so make test cuts in scrap pieces before cutting the actual parts.
Once the blade height and position are established, add a stop to the miter gauge fence.
This allows you to repeat the cut consistently on all four backrest sections.
Assemble the Seat Frames
With the shaping and joinery complete, the seatpan and backrest sections can be joined.
Apply glue to the mating surfaces and dowel holes, then assemble the parts.
The angled backrest creates an awkward surface for clamping. This is where the saved cutoffs become useful.
Attach the cutoffs temporarily with double-sided tape to create flat bearing surfaces for the clamps.
Once the glue has cured, remove the clamps and cutoffs.
Finish by planing or sanding the joints flush.
Step 2: Connect the Frames with Stretchers
With the individual seat frames complete, the next step is joining them into a rigid bench assembly.
Wide stretchers connect the frames and form the bottoms of the drawer compartments.
These parts are joined with tongue-and-dado joints.
The joinery provides plenty of glue surface and helps keep the frames aligned.
Rout the Dadoes in the Seat Frames
Start by cutting the dadoes in the seat frames.
It's generally easier to make the dado portion of a joint first, then fit the matching tongue to it.
The outer frames receive dadoes on their inside faces, while the two inner frames have dadoes on both sides.
A plunge router with a straight bit or spiral upcut bit works well for these cuts.
A spiral upcut bit offers improved chip clearance.
For accurate, repeatable cuts, use a simple router guide.
The guide consists of two side pieces, two end pieces, and a cleat underneath.
The opening is sized to guide the router baseplate along the length of the dado.
The cleat registers against the front edge of the seat frame, ensuring consistent placement.
After routing, square the rounded ends of the dadoes with a chisel.
Cut the Tongues on the Stretchers
The stretchers are wide enough that you may need to glue up panels before cutting them to size.
Once the blanks are prepared, cut tongues along their ends to fit the dadoes in the seat frames.
A dado blade at the table saw makes the job straightforward.
Begin by making rabbet cuts on both faces of each stretcher.
Then use a tall auxiliary fence on the miter gauge to support the workpiece while cutting the edge shoulders.
Check the fit of the tongues in the dadoes before assembly.
The joint should slide together without excessive force while maintaining a snug fit.
Assemble the Bench Frame
Begin the glueup with the two inner frames and the center stretcher.
Use clamping squares to keep the assembly aligned and prevent racking.
After the glue has cured, add the outer frames and stretchers one side at a time.
Working in stages makes the assembly easier to manage and gives you more control over alignment.
Step 3: Install the Seat Planks and Backrest
With the frame assembly complete, the bench is ready for its seat and backrest.
Three long planks span the supporting frames to create the seating surface and backrest.
The planks are attached with woodscrews.
Counterbored holes allow the screw heads to be concealed beneath wooden plugs.
Drill the Mounting Holes
Begin by drilling the counterbored mounting holes in the planks.
Position the planks on the frame assembly and clamp them securely.
Then drill the pilot holes and install the screws.
The original design uses contrasting wood plugs to create a subtle decorative detail.
For a less noticeable appearance, you can make plugs from matching wood.
Install and Trim the Wood Plugs
Apply a small amount of glue to the counterbores and insert the plugs.
Leave them slightly proud of the surrounding surface.
After the glue dries, trim the plugs flush with a block plane or sand them carefully.
The plugs conceal the fasteners while contributing to the bench's traditional appearance.
Woodsmith Tip: Because the seat and backrest are made from wide solid-wood planks, account for seasonal wood movement when planning the fastener locations. The mounting arrangement should secure the planks without unnecessarily restricting expansion and contraction across their width.
Step 4: Build the Storage Drawers
The final major construction step is building the drawers beneath the seat.
These drawers provide the bench with its practical storage capacity.
They're well suited for hats, gloves, scarves, dog leashes, and other items you want close to the entryway.
The drawers use straightforward tongue-and-dado joinery, with a bottom panel captured in grooves.
Cut the Drawer Joinery
Begin by cutting the drawer fronts, backs, and sides to size.
Use a dado blade at the table saw to cut the dadoes and grooves.
The drawer bottoms fit into grooves cut along the inside faces of the drawer parts.
Next, form the tongues on the drawer fronts and backs.
As with the bench stretchers, the tongues are made using rabbet cuts.
An auxiliary rip fence and miter gauge provide support while making the cuts.
Assemble the Drawers
Once the joinery is complete, cut the drawer bottoms to size.
Assemble the drawer boxes with glue, checking that each one is square.
While the glue dries, prepare the false drawer fronts.
These decorative fronts contribute significantly to the farmhouse appearance of the bench.
Shape the False Drawer Fronts
The false fronts include beveled edges and V-shaped cutouts that echo the design of the seat frames.
Start by cutting the fronts to size.
Tilt the table saw blade to create the specified bevel.
Then use a template to lay out and shape the V-shaped cutouts.
Rough-cut the openings before using a router and template to refine the edges.
Finally, add a chamfer around the front edges to soften the appearance.
Set the false fronts aside until after the drawers and slides have been installed.
This makes it easier to position the fronts accurately and maintain consistent gaps.
Step 5: Install the Undermount Drawer Slides
Undermount drawer slides are an important feature of this bench.
Because the slides are installed beneath the drawer boxes, they remain hidden when the drawers are open.
The hardware also provides smooth movement and, with the specified slide system, soft-close operation.
Proper alignment is essential.
The drawer width, opening width, and slide placement must all work together.
Prepare the Drawers for the Slides
Before installing the hardware, cut the necessary notches in the backs of the drawers.
These provide clearance for the undermount slides.
The notches can be cut at the table saw or with a router.
The drawer backs also require holes for the slide hardware.
Follow the hardware dimensions shown in the project drawings and the instructions supplied with the slides.
Install the Slides and Locking Devices
The installation follows four basic steps.
1. Mount the slides. Screw the slides to the seat frames, positioning their lower edges against the stretchers.
2. Attach the locking devices. Secure the locking mechanisms to the undersides of the drawer boxes.
3. Install the drawers. Slide each drawer into its opening until the locking devices engage with the slides.
4. Check the release mechanisms. The locking devices can be released when a drawer needs to be removed. To reinstall it, slide it back into position until the hardware engages.
After installing the drawers, check that they open and close smoothly.
Make any necessary adjustments before attaching the false fronts.
Attach the False Drawer Fronts
With the drawer boxes installed and aligned, position the false fronts.
Adjust the spacing to create consistent gaps between the drawer fronts and surrounding bench frames.
Once you're satisfied with the alignment, secure the false fronts to the drawer boxes.
This final detail completes the bench's traditional farmhouse appearance.
Finishing the Farmhouse Hall Bench
With the construction complete, the bench is ready for finishing.
The broad seat and backrest planks provide an opportunity to highlight the natural grain of the wood.
Before applying a finish, inspect the project for glue residue, sand the surfaces evenly, and remove the sanding dust.
Because the bench will see regular use, choose a finish that provides suitable protection against wear and occasional moisture.
A clear protective finish can highlight the natural character of elm or another hardwood while preserving the rustic appearance.
For a more traditional farmhouse look, you could also consider a stained or painted finish.
Whatever finish you choose, allow it to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions before putting the bench into service.
A Practical Farmhouse Bench for Any Entryway
This farmhouse hall bench combines traditional woodworking construction with features that make it useful every day.
The wide solid-wood planks create an inviting seat and backrest, while the sturdy frame-and-stretcher assembly provides support.
Below the seat, concealed storage drawers keep everyday essentials organized without compromising the bench's clean appearance.
The design can also be adjusted to fit different spaces, making it a versatile project for an entryway, mudroom, or hallway.
It's the kind of furniture that looks right at home while serving a practical purpose for years to come.
How to Prepare Wood for Staining and Finishing
Before applying stain or a protective topcoat to your new bench, make sure the wood is ready. Learn how to remove glue residue, repair small dents and blemishes, sand evenly, and eliminate dust for a smoother, more consistent finish.
LEARN HOW TO PREPARE WOOD FOR FINISHING → Four Simple Steps for a Better Finish
