There are usually several ways to accomplish a woodworking task, but when it comes to adding a decorative profile to the edge of a glued-up panel, the router table is hard to beat.
As long as the size of the panel allows it, routing at the table offers two important advantages: setup is straightforward, and the large tabletop provides plenty of support for the workpiece.
But simply installing a profile bit and making a pass doesn't guarantee a clean edge. A few details in the setup and routing sequence can make the difference between a smooth, crisp profile and one that's uneven or chipped.
Start With a Flat Router Table
Before worrying about the router bit, take a look at the surface supporting the workpiece.
The router table should be smooth, flat, and free of anything that might catch the panel as you feed it past the bit.
A slight hump in the tabletop may be workable, but a concave surface creates a bigger problem. As the panel passes over the bit, the center can ride above the tabletop rather than remaining fully supported. This makes it difficult to maintain a consistent profile along the entire edge.
Check the Router Insert Plate
The insert plate deserves special attention.
The plate should sit flush with the surrounding tabletop. A high or low edge can cause the panel to catch, bump, or dip as it crosses the insert. That small movement can leave a noticeable hiccup in the routed profile.
Lay a straightedge across the tabletop and insert plate before routing. If the surfaces aren't flush, level the plate before continuing.
Router Table Insert Plate Giving You Trouble? → Learn How to Level a Router Table Insert Plate
A loose or uneven insert plate can affect more than edge profiles. Learn how to eliminate movement and level the plate using simple shims, leveling screws, or adjustable plate levelers.
Make Multiple Light Router Passes
For all but the smallest edge profiles, you'll usually get better results by removing the material in several light passes rather than trying to cut the full profile at once.
A lighter cut puts less demand on the router bit and helps minimize chipping while leaving behind a smoother surface.
How many passes you need depends on the size and shape of the profile and the wood you're routing.
There are two basic ways to make progressively deeper cuts:
- Raise the router bit between passes.
- Move the fence back between passes to expose more of the bit.
For edge profiling, moving the fence is often the simpler approach.
Set the final bit height first and make a test cut to verify the profile. Then position the fence so only part of the bit is exposed for the first pass. Move the fence back between passes until the final cut uses the full profile.
The advantage is that once you've established the correct bit height, you don't have to disturb that setting.
WOODSMITH TIP: Set the Final Profile First. Use scrap from the project to establish and test the final bit height before routing the actual panel. Then control how much material is removed on each pass by adjusting the fence rather than changing the bit height.
Rout End Grain First to Control Chipout
The order in which you rout the edges is just as important as the depth of cut.
Routing across end grain can cause chipout where the bit exits the corner of the workpiece. Fortunately, when you're profiling all four edges of a panel, you can use the routing sequence to remove that damaged corner.
Start with an end-grain edge.
Then rotate the panel and rout the adjoining long-grain edge. This second pass removes the chipout left at the corner by the first cut.
Continue around the panel in the proper sequence so each following cut cleans up the corner left by the previous pass.
Use a Backer Board on the Final End
Things change when you're routing only three sides of a panel.
Make the first end-grain cut and then rotate the panel counterclockwise to rout the long edge. The final cut will be across the opposite end grain.
Since there isn't another long-grain pass to clean up the exit corner, use a backer board against that edge. The backer supports the wood fibers as the router bit exits the cut, helping prevent the corner from breaking away.
A Better Edge Starts With the Setup
Creating a clean decorative profile at the router table isn't just about choosing the right bit. Good results depend on controlling the workpiece throughout the entire cut.
Start with a flat, catch-free table and a flush insert plate. Set the final profile with a test piece, then sneak up on the cut with multiple light passes. Finally, pay attention to the order in which you rout the edges so any end-grain chipout gets removed by the next pass.
Those few habits can make a noticeable difference, leaving you with smooth, consistent edge profiles that require less cleanup afterward.
Build Your Own Router Table
Put these techniques to work with a shop-built router table designed for accurate, controlled routing.
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