Making Your Own Cutting Diagrams: How to Plan Lumber Cuts
Starting a new woodworking project is always exciting. But when you're faced with a stack of rough lumber and a long list of parts, figuring out where to begin can be intimidating.
Which boards should you cut first? How do you make the most of expensive hardwood? And how do you ensure the best-looking grain ends up in the most visible parts of your project?
A traditional woodworking cutting diagram can help organize the process. But there's a limitation: Cutting diagrams are usually based on boards with ideal dimensions, consistent color, and no defects.
As woodworkers, we know those boards rarely exist.
Real lumber comes in different widths and lengths. It may have knots, splits, sapwood, color variations, or grain patterns that affect where individual parts should be cut.
That's why, after nearly 50 years of building furniture in the Woodsmith production shop, we've developed a more flexible approach to planning lumber cuts.
Instead of relying on a fixed cutting diagram, we use a detailed parts list and prioritize components based on their appearance and location in the finished project.
Here's how to use that same approach in your own shop.
Step 1: Start with a Complete Woodworking Cut List
Before making the first cut, start with a complete list of the parts required for your project.
Every part should be identified by name, quantity, and final dimensions.
If you're building a Woodsmith project, the parts list is already included in the plans.
I like to take that list one step further by separating the parts according to the thickness of lumber required.
For example, I'll make separate lists for parts that require:
- 4/4 lumber
- 5/4 lumber
- 6/4 lumber
- Other thicknesses specified in the project
This makes it easier to determine how much lumber of each thickness I need to purchase.
Calculate the Board Feet You'll Need
Hardwood lumber is commonly sold by the board foot.
A board foot represents a piece of wood measuring 1" thick × 12" wide × 12" long.
To calculate board feet, use this formula:
Board Feet = Thickness (in.) × Width (in.) × Length (in.) ÷ 144
If your lumber is measured in inches for all three dimensions, the formula gives you the board footage.
You can also use an online board foot calculator to simplify the process.
Calculate the total board footage needed for each lumber thickness before heading to the lumberyard.
Buy Extra Lumber for Waste and Defects
Once you've calculated the lumber required for your project, add some extra material to account for waste.
I generally recommend purchasing 20% to 25% more lumber than the calculated amount.
That extra material provides flexibility when working around knots, splits, sapwood, and other imperfections.
It also gives you more options for selecting boards with attractive grain and consistent color.
Hardwood lumber isn't cheap, but running short or being forced to use an unattractive board in a prominent location can be even more frustrating.
And if you have a few boards left over when the project is complete, there's always another small project waiting to be built.
Step 2: Consider Secondary Woods and Plywood
Not every part of a furniture project needs to be made from the same expensive hardwood.
One way to save money is to use a less expensive secondary wood for components that won't be seen.
For example, poplar or alder may be suitable for:
- Drawer boxes
- Cabinet backs
- Interior supports
- Other concealed components
This is a traditional furniture-building approach that can significantly reduce material costs.
Hardwood plywood is another option for parts such as shelves and cabinet backs.
Of course, some projects call for solid wood throughout. Others offer more flexibility.
The important thing is to make those material decisions before purchasing lumber.
If you're using plywood, you'll still want to plan your cuts carefully. Although sheet goods are generally more consistent than solid lumber, grain direction, color, and veneer appearance still matter.
Step 3: Inspect Your Lumber Before Laying Out Parts
Once you've brought your lumber back to the shop, resist the temptation to start cutting immediately.
Instead, take time to examine every board.
Stand the boards against a wall or lay them across your workbench so you can see the grain, color, and overall appearance.
Look for:
- Knots and splits
- Sapwood and color variations
- Grain direction
- Checks and other defects
- Areas of particularly attractive figure
I like to mark defects with white chalk.
The marks make it easy to identify areas to avoid when laying out parts.
This simple step can prevent an unpleasant surprise after you've already cut a board to size.
Step 4: Cut Your Most Important Furniture Parts First
Here's where our approach differs from following a conventional cutting diagram.
Rather than trying to fit every part onto your lumber at once, start with the parts where appearance matters most.
These are often the largest or most visible components of the project.
Examples include:
- Tabletops
- Bookcase sides
- Cabinet doors
- Large furniture panels
- Drawer fronts
These pieces deserve first choice of your lumber.
Choose the Best Grain for Visible Surfaces
A tabletop or large cabinet panel often becomes the visual centerpiece of a project.
Take time to select boards with complementary grain and color.
If the part requires a glued-up panel, arrange the boards before cutting them to final size.
Look at how the grain flows from one board to the next.
A little extra planning at this stage can make a significant difference in the finished appearance.
Plan for Continuous Grain
Drawer fronts are another area where careful layout pays off.
If a project includes several drawers, consider cutting the fronts from the same board or a carefully selected sequence of boards.
This allows the grain to flow naturally across the fronts, creating a more unified appearance.
Once you've chosen the boards for these important components, cut them to rough length.
Leave the appropriate extra material for subsequent milling and trimming.
Label Every Part as You Go
As you cut the boards, label them immediately.
I use painter's tape and a Sharpie to identify each part.
Then I check it off the parts list.
This simple habit keeps parts from getting mixed up and helps you track your progress through the project.
It's especially valuable when you're working with several similar-looking components.
Step 5: Follow the Grain for Rails, Stiles, and Narrow Parts
With the large, appearance-critical parts selected, move on to the smaller visible components.
These might include:
- Door rails and stiles
- Face-frame parts
- Brackets
- Fascia pieces
- Glass stops
These parts can often be cut from shorter or narrower boards.
But grain direction is still important.
Align the Grain with the Length of the Part
Long, narrow furniture parts usually look best when the grain runs parallel to their length.
This creates a clean, consistent appearance and can help avoid short-grain areas.
Sometimes the natural grain doesn't run parallel to the edge of a rough board.
In that case, you may need to establish a new reference edge that follows the grain before ripping the part to width.
A circular saw or band saw can be useful for making that initial cut.
Afterward, you can straighten the edge using your normal milling process.
Match Grain and Color Across Related Parts
When selecting rails and stiles for a door or frame, try to choose pieces with similar grain and color.
Even when the parts come from different boards, thoughtful selection helps them look like they belong together.
It's a small detail that contributes to a more cohesive finished project.
Step 6: Use Offcuts for Smaller and Hidden Parts
Once you've selected the visible components, it's time to make the most of the remaining lumber.
This is where you can often recover material that wouldn't have been suitable for larger parts.
Short boards, narrow strips, and pieces with minor imperfections may be perfectly usable for hidden components.
For example, a board with a small knot or a section of sapwood might work well for an interior support or another part that won't be visible.
You can also glue smaller boards together to create larger blanks when appropriate.
By saving these parts until later in the layout process, you avoid using your best lumber where it won't be appreciated.
Step 7: Work Through Your Cutting Plan in Stages
You don't need to lay out and cut every part of a large project in one session.
In fact, I often find it easier to work through the project in stages.
Start by laying out and processing the major components.
Then, as each section of the project comes together, return to the remaining lumber and parts list.
This allows you to adjust your cutting plan as the project progresses.
It also gives you opportunities to use offcuts from earlier operations for smaller components later.
The key is to continue prioritizing the parts based on their appearance and importance.
Are Woodworking Cutting Diagrams Still Useful?
Traditional cutting diagrams can still be helpful, especially when working with plywood or other sheet goods that have consistent dimensions.
They can provide a starting point for estimating material requirements and arranging parts efficiently.
But when you're working with solid hardwood, a fixed diagram can't account for the characteristics of every board.
That's why we prefer a more flexible approach in the Woodsmith shop.
Rather than forcing the parts to fit a predetermined layout, we select the lumber that best suits each component.
The result is a cutting plan that accounts for grain, color, defects, and the appearance of the finished project.
Better Lumber Layout Makes Better Furniture
Making your own woodworking cutting plan doesn't have to be complicated.
Start with a complete parts list, calculate the lumber you need, and purchase enough material to give yourself some flexibility.
Then inspect your boards, mark defects, and prioritize the parts where grain and appearance matter most.
Save smaller and less visible components for later, when you can make use of the remaining material.
After nearly 50 years of building projects in the Woodsmith shop, we've found that this organized approach is one of the best ways to get the most from our lumber.
And more importantly, it helps turn a pile of rough boards into a finished project you'll be proud of.
How to Make a Woodworking Cutting Diagram & Save Lumber
Before making the first cut, take time to plan how you'll get the most from your lumber. A well-organized cutting diagram can help you avoid waste, make better use of your materials, and save money.
Learn how to organize your cut list, arrange project parts, and plan efficient cuts for both solid lumber and plywood.
LEARN HOW TO PLAN YOUR CUTS → Plan Your Cuts, Save Lumber, and Reduce Waste
