Table Saw Tricks for Vertical Cuts: Jigs, Joinery & Raised Panels
The table saw is one of the most versatile tools in the woodworking shop. It's the go-to machine for ripping boards, crosscutting parts, breaking down plywood, and cutting all kinds of joinery. Most of these operations involve keeping the workpiece flat against the saw table. But with the right accessories, you can also hold a workpiece vertically to shape its edges and cut precise joinery.
A tall auxiliary fence and a sliding jig open up a whole new range of table saw techniques. With these simple shop-made accessories, you can cut raised panels, form rabbets without a dado blade, create smooth tenons, and add splines to miter joints.
Both accessories are straightforward to build from plywood or MDF, and they make the table saw even more useful for furniture and cabinetmaking.
Build a Tall Auxiliary Fence for Your Table Saw
The first challenge when making vertical cuts is keeping the workpiece upright and stable as it passes the blade.
A tall auxiliary fence provides the additional support needed to guide panels and boards on edge. It fits over the table saw's existing rip fence, creating a much taller reference surface.
The extra height helps prevent a workpiece from tipping during the cut and provides a convenient surface for additional workholding accessories.
Making the Tall Fence
Baltic birch plywood is an excellent choice for this jig because it's strong, stable, and holds screws well. MDF is another suitable option.
Start by cutting two fence sides approximately 12" tall and as long as your table saw's rip fence.
The sides are connected by internal supports that fit around the rip fence. Cut grooves in the plywood sides to house these supports, sizing them for a snug fit over your particular fence.
Drill countersunk screw holes for assembly. On the side opposite the blade, install threaded inserts for two studded knobs.
These knobs secure the auxiliary fence to the rip fence and prevent it from shifting during use.
Assemble the parts with screws, leaving the joints unglued in case you need to adjust the fit later.
Before using the fence, check that it sits square to the table and is securely attached.
Cut Raised Panels With a Tall Table Saw Fence
A raised panel adds a traditional detail to cabinet doors, furniture, and other frame-and-panel assemblies.
While raised panels are often made using specialized router bits or shaper cutters, you can create attractive profiles using a table saw and a tall auxiliary fence.
Two common options are a simple beveled panel and a panel with a defined shoulder around the raised center.
Step 1: Cut the Shoulder
For a raised panel with a defined shoulder, start with the workpiece lying flat on the table saw.
Set the blade height to 3/16" and position the rip fence 1-1/2" from the blade.
Make a cut along all four edges of the panel's outside face. These shallow cuts establish the shoulder that separates the raised center from the surrounding bevel.
Step 2: Cut the Beveled Edges
Next, install the tall auxiliary fence and tilt the saw blade to approximately 10°–12°.
Position the panel vertically against the fence and adjust the blade height so the angled cut meets the inside corner of the shoulder cut.
Make the bevel cuts along the panel edges, using the tall fence to keep the workpiece upright and supported.
A wooden handscrew clamp attached to the top edge of the panel can provide additional support. The handscrew rides along the top of the tall fence, helping keep the panel square during the cut.
Use test pieces to fine-tune the blade angle and depth before cutting the actual panel.
How to Cut Rabbets on a Table Saw Without a Dado Blade
A dado blade is a convenient way to cut rabbets, but changing blades takes time. When you only need to cut one or two rabbets, a standard table saw blade and tall fence can be a quicker alternative.
The technique uses two intersecting cuts to remove the waste and create the rabbet.
Step 1: Make the First Cut
Start with the workpiece lying flat on the saw table.
Position the rip fence to establish the width of the rabbet, then adjust the blade height to define its depth.
Make the first cut along the edge of the workpiece.
Step 2: Complete the Rabbet With a Vertical Cut
Install the tall auxiliary fence and stand the workpiece on edge.
Adjust the rip fence and blade height so the second cut intersects the kerf made during the first pass.
Guide the workpiece vertically along the fence to remove the remaining waste and complete the rabbet.
This two-step method produces a clean rabbet without installing a dado blade.
Build a Sliding Table Saw Jig for Tenons and Splined Miters
A stationary tall fence works well for shaping panels and cutting rabbets. But for cutting joinery on the ends of boards, a sliding jig provides better control.
This shop-made jig rides along the table saw's rip fence, carrying the workpiece past the blade while keeping it upright.
The design is reversible, with a different workholding cleat on each side.
- 90° cleat: Holds a workpiece square for cutting tenons.
- 45° cleat: Supports mitered workpieces for cutting spline slots.
Constructing the Sliding Jig
Like the tall auxiliary fence, the sliding jig consists of two plywood sides connected by internal supports.
Cut grooves in the sides to house the supports, then size the supports to fit your table saw's rip fence.
The jig should slide smoothly along the fence without noticeable side-to-side movement.
Assemble the parts with countersunk screws.
On one face, cut a shallow dado to locate the 90° cleat square to the table. On the opposite face, attach the 45° cleat with screws.
Leaving the cleats unglued allows you to fine-tune their positions or replace them if they become damaged.
Before installing the cleats, check the maximum blade height and locate all mounting screws well outside the blade's cutting path.
A light coat of wax on the surfaces that contact the rip fence helps the jig slide smoothly.
Cut Strong Splined Miter Joints on the Table Saw
Miter joints provide a clean, seamless appearance, making them popular for picture frames, boxes, and cabinet trim.
However, a typical miter joint relies heavily on end-grain glue surfaces, which can limit its strength.
Adding a hardwood spline reinforces the joint and helps keep the mating pieces aligned during assembly.
Cutting the Spline Slots
The 45° side of the sliding jig makes it easy to cut accurately positioned spline slots.
Place the mitered workpiece against the angled cleat and secure it with a small clamp.
Position the blade to cut a centered slot in the mitered end. A dado blade can be used when a wider slot is required.
With the workpiece held securely, guide the sliding jig past the blade to complete the cut.
Repeat the process on the mating workpiece to create matching slots.
Make and Install the Splines
Plane a piece of hardwood to match the thickness of the spline slots.
Orient the grain of the spline perpendicular to the joint line to help resist splitting and strengthen the connection.
Apply glue to the slots and splines, assemble the joint, and clamp the pieces together.
After the glue dries, trim the exposed spline flush with a flush-cut saw and smooth the surface with sandpaper.
The result is a strong miter joint with a clean appearance.
How to Cut Smooth Tenons With a Table Saw Jig
A mortise-and-tenon joint is one of the strongest and most useful joints in woodworking. There are several ways to cut tenons on a table saw, but using a vertical tenoning jig offers an important advantage.
When tenon cheeks are cut with a dado blade, the resulting surfaces may have visible scoring marks.
Cutting the tenon vertically with a good-quality rip blade produces smoother cheeks that often require little additional cleanup.
This is particularly useful for through-tenon joinery, where portions of the tenon remain visible in the finished project.
Step 1: Cut the Tenon Shoulders
Start by marking the length of the tenon on the workpiece.
Using a miter gauge, cut the shoulder on all four faces of the board. These cuts establish the tenon's length and provide a reference for the cheek cuts.
Step 2: Cut the Tenon Cheeks
Secure the workpiece vertically against the 90° cleat on the sliding jig.
Align the blade with the shoulder cut and adjust the rip fence to establish the thickness of the tenon.
Slide the jig and workpiece through the cut to form the first cheek.
Reposition the workpiece and repeat the process to cut the opposite cheek.
The resulting tenon has smooth, flat faces that provide a good fit in the mortise.
Step 3: Fine-Tune the Fit
Test the tenon in its matching mortise.
If the fit is too tight, adjust the rip fence slightly and make another light pass.
A properly fitted tenon should slide into the mortise with firm hand pressure without forcing the joint together.
Table Saw Safety When Making Vertical Cuts
Vertical cutting techniques require secure workholding and careful attention to the blade.
Before making a cut, verify that the auxiliary fence or sliding jig is stable and that the workpiece is firmly supported.
Keep your hands clear of the blade and use appropriate clamps, push devices, and guards whenever the operation allows.
When using the sliding jig, continue moving the workpiece completely past the blade before removing it.
Never pull the jig and workpiece backward through a spinning blade. The rear teeth can catch the workpiece and cause kickback.
Make test cuts in scrap material to confirm the setup before cutting your project parts.
Get More From Your Table Saw With Simple Shop-Made Jigs
A tall auxiliary fence and a sliding joinery jig can dramatically expand the capabilities of your table saw.
The tall fence makes it possible to shape raised panels and cut rabbets with a standard blade. The sliding jig provides a controlled way to cut smooth tenons and accurately positioned spline slots.
Both accessories are relatively simple to build, and their versatility makes them valuable additions to any woodworking shop.
Once you become comfortable with vertical cutting techniques, you'll find plenty of opportunities to use them in furniture, cabinetmaking, and other woodworking projects.
RELATED ARTICLE: Table Saw Tenoning Jig: Cut Perfect-Fitting Tenons
How to Cut Tenons on a Table Saw
Cutting accurate tenons is essential for strong mortise-and-tenon joinery. Learn more about table saw tenoning techniques, blade setup, and tips for creating smooth, properly fitted joints.
Learn More About Cutting Table Saw Tenons ➜ 3 Ways to Cut Tenons on a Table Saw: Which Method Should You Use?
