Subscribe to Woodsmith magazine
There's more to choosing the right sandpaper than you might think. Here’s how to get it right.
Get the scoop on finding a stack dado blade that will give you the most bang for your buck.
Here's a handy set-up gauge that puts machine shop accuracy at your fingertips.
This modern joinery technique can make your projects go together faster and better.
There's no stitching required -- just a couple days of straightforward woodworking. The end result is a unique project that's guaranteed to attract attention and compliments.
Page 1: Online Extra
The dimension for the short vertical border block (lower right corner of the page) should be 6".
Page 21: Detail a and b
Detail illustrations 'a' and 'b' in the upper right corner of the page show incorrect distances for the stop block location. The measurement in detail 'a' should be changed from 1 5/8" to 1 1/2". The measurement in detail 'b' should be changed from 1 1/2" to 1 5/16".
Page 23: Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram
The dimension of 1-5/8" shown on part H (Diamonds) should be 1-23/32".
Page 21: Dimensions of Part H
The illustration at the top of the page and detail a in the top illustration under How-To Cut Blocks gives the dimension of 1 1/58" for the diamond-shaped pieces (H) but it should be 1 23/32".
Page 21: Drawing of top block pieces
Clarification: The thickness of the blocks used to create the pattern is 1/4".
Who says that straightforward construction and style can’t go hand in hand? Here’s proof positive. No-nonsense techniques and simple details add up to a practical, great-looking project.
Page 30: Illustration, lower right
The drawing has the person's arm in an unsafe position. The arm should be more to the left and away from the saw blade.
This handsome corner cabinet gets all the traditional details right -- from its crown molding and beaded back to its painted finish. The bonus is making good use of an empty corner.
Page 41: Materials List
Four corrections: (1) The materials list indicates that four pocket screws are needed, but only two are required. (2) The dimensions for the Shelf (M) should be 12 3/4". (3) The Door Panels (Q) are 3/4" thick. The cutting diagram properly shows them as being cut from 3/4" poplar. (4) The correct dimension for the Side Panels (E) is 16 7/16" (3/8 ply. - 16 7/16 x 27 1/4), as shown in the drawing on page 34.
Page 51: Source for crown molding
The crown molding source was omitted from the Sources information. The molding used was from Ferche, product number F610. The Ferche website has a dealer locator: www.ferche.com.
Page 34: Main illustration
At the top of the main drawing, there is a dimension shown of 13". This is actually the distance from the end of the top panel to the screw hole, not to the corner of the panel as shown. The left arrow of the dimension line should extend over to the screw hole. (The correct distance of 11 1/16" from the end of the panel to the back corner is shown on the bottom panel.)
Page 38: Middle illustration, detail a
The middle drawing in the How-To box gives an incorrect depth of 1/4" for the dadoes in the Back Stiles (D). The correct depth is 3/8". This matches the depth of the rabbets at the top and bottom of the stiles.
Learn a few simple techniques that will allow you to get more from this essential hand tool.
We'll show you how to make your project shine with this tried-and-true finishing technique.
Using a combination of power and hand tools, you can make classic-looking door frames.