Tips & Techniques4
- Page 5: Anti Racking Device text
The last sentence of the first paragraph should read "But clamping the scrap and workpiece at the same time can be a challenge."
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We'll show you why it pays to keep this versatile adhesive on hand in your shop.
Super glue is great to have on hand for all-around use in the shop. You can find an assortment of super glues, de-bonders, and accelerators at most hardware stores and home centers.
If you want smooth, consistent curves with less work, this is the tool that will get it done.
This set-up tool from Bridge City will help you cut joinery with dead-on accuracy.
The KM-1 Kerfmaker is sold exclusively through Bridge City Tool Works. You can find more information on the KM-1, including a link to an online video showing the tool in use, at the Bridge City Tool Works website.
A word about ordering from Bridge City Tool Works. Like most Bridge City items, the KM-1 is made in small batches to fill existing orders (plus a few extras). If Bridge City doesn’t have the Kerfmaker in stock at the time you place your order, ask about having your name put on the waiting list for the next production run.
Here's a tried-and-true technique for making accurate mortises with maximum efficiency.
Who says a small project can't be packed full of interesting woodworking? What you won't find is a large investment in time and materials.
Aside from the wood, the only supply you'll need to build the potpourri box on page 16 is a small piece of window screen. You can purchase window screen material at most hardware stores or home centers.
To finish the project, I stained the box only (not the lid) with General Finishes' Gel Stain (Prairie Wheat). Then I applied a couple coats of a wiping varnish (General Finishes' Seal-a-Cell).
The pewter insert used on the alternate lid was purchased from Craft Supplies USA (064-0052).
Featuring a pattern-veneered top and subtle details, this accent table is sure to attract more than its share of attention.
The focal point of the accent table on page 20 is the veneered top. I used paper-backed veneer for this project. The paper backing helps to prevent the veneer from splitting and cracking. The one downside is that it's only sold in large sheets, so you end up with quite a bit of leftover veneer. Paperbacked veneer is available from a couple of the sources shown.
In addition to the veneer, you'll also need some 1⁄8"-wide, dyed inlay strips. These are available through the Woodsmith Store. And finally, to attach the top to the base, I used some tabletop fasteners from Rockler (34215).
I finished the table by first wiping on a coat of General Finishes' Seal-a-Cell to give the wood a warm color. This was followed by a couple coats of lacquer. Then I added a glaze to the finish, using General Finishes' Gel Stain (Java). Simply wipe the stain on and then wipe it off again lightly, allowing some to remain in the crevices and corners. Finally, you can give the table another coat of lacquer.
This beautiful cabinet is a true classic. The appearance is tastefully traditional while the construction and function are very up-to-date.
Most of the hardware for the sliding door cabinet on page 30 was purchased from Rockler. This includes the stem bumpers (28373), threaded inserts (33183), connector bolts (31831), shelf supports (33902), and T-nuts (26070). The recessed pulls were ordered from Lee Valley (01X42.11). The glass for the doors was purchased at a local glass shop.
I stained the cabinet with a mix of three parts Zar Stain (Cherry) and one part WoodKote Jel’d Stain (Cherry). After spraying on a couple of coats of lacquer, I added a glaze and a final coat of lacquer, just as described above for the veneered accent table (using General Finishes' Gel Stain (Java)).
Learn some tips and tricks that will guarantee a perfect fit when cutting this essential joint.
There are lots of good reasons why this is the only finish many woodworkers put their trust in.
These handcrafted joints offer a sturdy, traditional option for "knock-down" construction.